Hi. I'm new at this and will most likely sound like a tool, but here goes....

How long do I need to let the engine warm before running my machine? It dies even after a few minutes of warm up.

The indicator lights on the control panel for Neutral and Park don't turn on unless I really mess with the shifter for a long while. Actually, N hasn't turned on a few months. But H L and R do just fine. If the light isn't on in N or P I can't start it up. Are the solinoids (sp?) going bad or need to be cleaned? How can I access them?

I do all riding by myself so I'm kinda concerned about the indicator lights. I can't start it with the cord either. Is the any alternative to starting my machine?

Thanks.

you'll probably get a few different responses but here are some of my opinions.

When it's cold I let my grizz warm up for about 10 minutes. Probably don't need to do it quiet so long but I just start it up while loading my bag or getting ready to head out. If it's very cold and I try to get her moving after just a minute or so it'll stall.

Not sure about your indicator lights, never had that problem.

Starting with the cord is tough. I only did it once, just to see if I could. First pull the cord all the way out slowly then give it a good pull.


Good luck and be careful riding alone

you shouldn't have to wait that long for your grizzly to warm unless it is extremely cold.....
if it is hard to start even with the choke when it is cold you should probably back the fuel mixture screw out a 1/4 or 1/2 turn.....

my bike has been cold natured since new,,,i too let it warm up for about ten minutes,but if i cant ,i leave the choke on half way,and if i can get it backed out without it stalling its ok from there,,,,one thing i have noticed since i bypassed the reverse rev limiter,is its gotton alot easier to back out of the shed while its cold

also you can try a electric block heater

i never had the problem with the indicator lights either,so no help there

I let my machine run for about five minutes

Starting it with the pull cord is kinda tricky...there is an automatic decompression cam that kicks in when you hit the compression stroke to make the machine easier to turn over (still takes some muscle). This is how I do it: First I stand on the floorboard facing the machine; Second, grab the pull cord with both hands and pull it until it stops on the compression stroke; Third, let the cord retract into the recoil and quickly pull it again. Follow those steps and you should be good to go.

As far as your light problem, you could have a dirty contact on the shifter, or the linkage somewhere...I'm not sure were the switch is located for the lights.

Depending on the ambiant temperature, it doesnt need alot of warm up...just dont go hitting redline before it gets fully warmed up. But moderate driving is ok. If it wants to pop out the carb when getting on the gas, its too lean. Having the choke on full wont hurt...its just an enrichment jet, youre not really chokeing the air flow. So if it needs to be on full, so be it,...after a few minutes of moderate driving, it should be able to come off.
Does the gas you use, have ethenol in it? If it does, try using pure gas, if you can find it. Up here in MN, were lucky to find pure gas this time of year, and are stuck using the ethenol blend, which is about 10% leaner than pure gas, and causes cold weather starting and cold blooded running issues all the time.
And like what was said, a 1/4 turn out on the mixture screw, most of the time, makes a huge difference.

It can be bump started, have someone hook up a tow strap, put the grizz in high, key on, choke on (if cold motor)get on and have it towwed it at about 10mph, and itll pop right off.

The shift rod linkage could be out of adjustment, or the switch down by the tranny could have dirt in the connector, or the bulb is burned out. Does the starter turn over when in neutral, with out the light working? If your in high, the starter wont spin, until you hold the back brake.

Welcome to the forums.

well, my grizz doesnt take very long to start up, even when it's cold. when its really cold i just use the choke and it starts right up and i let it sit for a minute or two. when its warmed up it starts really really easy.

now about the indicator lights.... it may just be temporary. wen i first got my griz my park light didnt work.... but it still put it in park, just the light didnt come up. wen u change it into park or neutral or watever and ur light doesnt come on.... u should still be able to hear a little click... which tells u that it's in that gear. mabe u just have to shake ur quad a little bit. thats wat happened to me a couple times the first time i rode it. when i tried to put it into park it wouldnt go so i just rocked the quad back and forth a little bit and it clicked and worked. the guy at the dealer told me that its normal for that to happen for the first couple of times u ride it.... kuz its not broken in yet. after a lil while it stopped and now theres no problem. also... u might not be pressing the brakes hard enough when switching into park or wherever, and thats not a good thing, lol.

riding alone is not a very good idea.... its very dangerous. u should always bring somebody along with u, just a suggestion.

welcome to the forums man.

o yea and how long has this been going on? have all ur problems been like this from day one? how many miles do u have on it? or hours?

My 05 takes a bit to warm up too...and if you try to put it in gear too early it dies cause the choke raises the idle speed too high to shift. You can avoid this by starting it in gear and grabbing the brake to start it. However...its good to let it warm up before you drive it off anywhay, so as was mentioned earlier I also start it and then load up my gear as its warming up and as I slowly take the choke off.
As far as find the nuetral position with the light, mine also has that issue. Its a combination of two things. First...you have to depress the foot brake pretty hard to shift...and often I use both the left handbrake and the foot brake to get the release mechanism to allow shifting without having to fight with it. As far as getting the light on I sometimes have to rock the machine back and forth a little. If you're on flat ground it does not happen as much, but on any incline it does not want to register the nuetral or park light.
If anyone knows of an adjustment for this issue I'm all ears. I have not yet tried to follow back all the linkage from the foot brake to see if there is an adjustment that would free up the shift mechanism earlier.

yea thats wat i was talkin bout. sumtimes i have to rock it a lil. i wonder if theres a way to fix/avoid that.