I would venture to say that you have one needle out of place in the cap that is already in position. Either that, or it's the one you can't get into place. A needle laying across the cap, will keep the spider from seating fully in the cap. If they are all in position, then it's a matter of force. I recall doing mine with a hammer and socket so surely it can't be that tight.

Good luck - it's always two steps forward and one step back. I'd disassemble and verify all needles are in correct before resorting to the dealer. I've yet to find one that takes as good a care of my quad as I do.

 

Hey GlenJ

I'm with 95, take it back apart and see if you do indeed have one of the needles down in the bottom of one of the caps. With all the grease, it wouldn't be hard to miss.

I pressed mine back in with a "C" clamp and socket, went in smooth as silk.

You've come this far, give it another shot. "Take it to the Dealer"...bite your tongue [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

Thanks for the advice guys; it's always appreciated. And yes, it is one step forward...then a stonewall!

I took it apart twice and couldn't find anything wrong with the caps or the needles. I even took out a bit of grease because I thought I overloaded the caps. I have a feeling these things are just tight. I did research on the internet and saw pictures of people using regular old c-clamps and sockets to pop out the caps when taking it apart. I had to use to a a balljoint press and my impact wrench. To say they were in tight would be an understatement.

I know, I hate bringing anything in to be serviced. However, I'm not sure I have the right tool(s) to do this now. If they can get it pressed on for a decent price, I'll have them do it. If not....I dunno.

 

Well guys, they could't get it to budge in the shop press. The manager felt something is odd because the yoke isn't rotating freely...it almost feels notchy.

You guys are right, it needs to come apart again. I'll inspect the needles and make sure there's not too much grease. Back to AutoZone to "reborrow" that balljoint tool! LOL!

 

Looks like this is still a current topic, so I've got a related question. I have a '96 and a '01 and this spring while re-building the top end of both, I switch the motors so I'd always have a bike to ride.

In both cases, the swingarm was full of oil. I was shoked and questioned the dealer. He said it wasn't uncommon but wasn't supposed to be.

My question is: Does the seal have to be changed? What's be problem with just leaving it? You would only get so much leakage, then the level would match the motor level and stop? In the meantime your main universal would be well lubed.

Also, about the boot....I ordered a new one and it went on in 10 seconds, whereas, re-using the old one took me 2 hours of screwing around before I could compress it enough to get a seal all the way around without it popping off again. It was worth the 20 bucks.

 

Oh good! Glad to hear the new boot fit! Whad id you use for adhesive on the swingarm side of the boot?

I'd change the seal. The oil leaks out of the engine and then you're basically running engine oil in your rear diff. IMHO, that's probably a bit too thin since gear oil is usually 80 or 90 weight.

Plus, if oil is leaking out, there's a change is may leak back in. You probably would't want that "mix" of oil making it's way back into the crankcase.

 

Hey, I didn't put anything for adhesive, just new clamps on both sides. Doesn't leak. I've put about 40 rought hours on it, still no leak.

If the motor oil wasn't in there, there would be no oil at all. Just dry Universals. The rear end is sealed from the main shaft in the swing arm.

I'll keep you posted, but I'm not pulling it off again unless I have to. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] particularly after your tail of wow.

 

Cool. The service manual said to use some type of adhesive. I was thinking that was may optional.

LOL! You have to remember, this machine is "new" to me. My other machine is a chain driven trike. Shaft drive is a whole new animal for me. When I'm done, I'm going to complile all the pics I took and do a nice write up for the link in my sig. That way, when someone else has to do this, they'll be able to see what's involved.

 

Hey Guys,

As for the swingarm Boot adhesive on the swingarm side, I used Permatex "Black Silicone Adhesive Sealant". It has a "16B" toward the bottom of the tube. I think I picked it up at Advance Auto Parts.

Sealer info for future use...for engine use, where there is no gasket, i.e. the case halves, the sealer of choice seems to be a sealer by Honda, "Hondabond HT", Hi-Temp Silicone Liquid Gasket. I used this on my case halves, when putting the 446 together and it worked like a champ with no leaks, 1.5 years later.

As for the engine oil in the swingarm...for one, that oil shouldn't have an opportunity to mix with the gear oil, since the pinion seal shouldn't let any oil or water for that matter, into the rear end. If the rear middle shaft seal is leaking enough for oil to accumulate in the housing, what's to say it isn't going to start leaking worse and dump an unwanted amount of engine oil into the rear end housing while your riding someday. Remember, you have an oil Temp light, not an oil level or oil low light. Then, lets assume the rear end housing does fill up, I doubt you want that nasty oil getting back up into your motor. I've not heard of this seal being a real issue. Mine is a 2001 and my housing had no signs of any oil being in there.

 

Tom,
Cool, I'll try that silicone you recomeded. I think I've seen it at the parts store before.

Interesting! So I'm wondering if that was engine oil after all. I've heard of the axle seal on the right hand side of the axle (near the disk) going bad. I wonder if that was the case with mine and the diff fluid just got nasty from contamination?