A-arms and Shocks
Sep 15, 2006 | 02:30 AM
#1
Thread Starter
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Trailblazer
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 44
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A-arms and Shocks
Looking to buy in the next day or two wondering if I should go with the complete kit from I-Shocks the i5500 kit or buy stuff seperate like houser a-arms and fox float shocks. Has anybody used the I-shock kit and if so what did you think of it? Any info would be helpful. thanks
Sep 15, 2006 | 04:45 AM
#2
Trailblazer
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 77
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A-arms and Shocks
yes i have installed a set of i 5500 i-shocks on my new 700. and yes it did make a big differants. The kit was stright forward ever thing fit perfect and it only took me about 2 hours to install the complete kit.
Sep 15, 2006 | 11:55 AM
#4
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Trailblazer
Joined: Nov 2005
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A-arms and Shocks
sometimes a link shows up at the top of the page or go to hydrodynamics.com. hey grizzly greg have you rode the bike alot since you put the kit on? just wondering about the durabilty as compared to a setup like roll design or a laeger and elka suspension kit. also mine is going on a 660 were you able to use the stock tierod ends and spindles?
Sep 15, 2006 | 12:01 PM
#5
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Trailblazer
Joined: Nov 2005
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A-arms and Shocks
also can anybody explain the basic difference between long travle and standard travle. as far as I can see they both come with +2 arms on most kits and the only difference is the price thanks everyone
Sep 15, 2006 | 04:59 PM
#6
Pro Rider
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 635
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A-arms and Shocks
I think before you buy shocks and a-arms you should think about the type of riding you are most likely to do.
If you ride motocross, you may want a set of a-arms with a wider stance and more adjustability, like the Houser Slicast a-arms or Laeger's.
If you ride trails and cross-country type terrain, you may want a set of inverted a-arms which gives you more ground clearance like ARS or ATV Fourplay.
The iShocks may be intended for a particular type of riding, as Elka makes a set of shocks designed specifically for dune riding. Of all the machines I have built, cost has always been a factor when purchasing suspension. The one lesson I learned is this: don't go cheap on cost or product. Suspension is the most crucial aspect of your ride; from getting and keeping power to the ground and ensuring a smooth ride or the ability to clear a 100 foot step-up camel back. Different shocks will give you different abilities. There are more than a dozen good shock companies out there, from Custom Axis to Elka to Noleen to Fox to Progressive to Works to Ohlins to simple re-valve kits.
There is a big difference between long-travel and standard travel aftermarket shock kits. Long-travel shocks usually provide anywhere from 3 to 4 inches more wheel travel than standard travel setups. Long-travel a-arms are designed in such a way to allow for shocks with actual longer shock bodies than standard travel shocks. The advantages include: better absorption from harder hits, increased adjustability for fine-tuning and a smoother, faster ride — it's worth the money if you tackle big jumps and ride at insane speeds. Otherwise, save your money.
Choose wisely.
If you ride motocross, you may want a set of a-arms with a wider stance and more adjustability, like the Houser Slicast a-arms or Laeger's.
If you ride trails and cross-country type terrain, you may want a set of inverted a-arms which gives you more ground clearance like ARS or ATV Fourplay.
The iShocks may be intended for a particular type of riding, as Elka makes a set of shocks designed specifically for dune riding. Of all the machines I have built, cost has always been a factor when purchasing suspension. The one lesson I learned is this: don't go cheap on cost or product. Suspension is the most crucial aspect of your ride; from getting and keeping power to the ground and ensuring a smooth ride or the ability to clear a 100 foot step-up camel back. Different shocks will give you different abilities. There are more than a dozen good shock companies out there, from Custom Axis to Elka to Noleen to Fox to Progressive to Works to Ohlins to simple re-valve kits.
There is a big difference between long-travel and standard travel aftermarket shock kits. Long-travel shocks usually provide anywhere from 3 to 4 inches more wheel travel than standard travel setups. Long-travel a-arms are designed in such a way to allow for shocks with actual longer shock bodies than standard travel shocks. The advantages include: better absorption from harder hits, increased adjustability for fine-tuning and a smoother, faster ride — it's worth the money if you tackle big jumps and ride at insane speeds. Otherwise, save your money.
Choose wisely.
Sep 16, 2006 | 03:16 AM
#7
Pro Rider
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,763
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A-arms and Shocks
Originally posted by: Raptor149
I think before you buy shocks and a-arms you should think about the type of riding you are most likely to do.
If you ride motocross, you may want a set of a-arms with a wider stance and more adjustability, like the Houser Slicast a-arms or Laeger's.
If you ride trails and cross-country type terrain, you may want a set of inverted a-arms which gives you more ground clearance like ARS or ATV Fourplay.
The iShocks may be intended for a particular type of riding, as Elka makes a set of shocks designed specifically for dune riding. Of all the machines I have built, cost has always been a factor when purchasing suspension. The one lesson I learned is this: don't go cheap on cost or product. Suspension is the most crucial aspect of your ride; from getting and keeping power to the ground and ensuring a smooth ride or the ability to clear a 100 foot step-up camel back. Different shocks will give you different abilities. There are more than a dozen good shock companies out there, from Custom Axis to Elka to Noleen to Fox to Progressive to Works to Ohlins to simple re-valve kits.
There is a big difference between long-travel and standard travel aftermarket shock kits. Long-travel shocks usually provide anywhere from 3 to 4 inches more wheel travel than standard travel setups. Long-travel a-arms are designed in such a way to allow for shocks with actual longer shock bodies than standard travel shocks. The advantages include: better absorption from harder hits, increased adjustability for fine-tuning and a smoother, faster ride — it's worth the money if you tackle big jumps and ride at insane speeds. Otherwise, save your money.
Choose wisely.
I think before you buy shocks and a-arms you should think about the type of riding you are most likely to do.
If you ride motocross, you may want a set of a-arms with a wider stance and more adjustability, like the Houser Slicast a-arms or Laeger's.
If you ride trails and cross-country type terrain, you may want a set of inverted a-arms which gives you more ground clearance like ARS or ATV Fourplay.
The iShocks may be intended for a particular type of riding, as Elka makes a set of shocks designed specifically for dune riding. Of all the machines I have built, cost has always been a factor when purchasing suspension. The one lesson I learned is this: don't go cheap on cost or product. Suspension is the most crucial aspect of your ride; from getting and keeping power to the ground and ensuring a smooth ride or the ability to clear a 100 foot step-up camel back. Different shocks will give you different abilities. There are more than a dozen good shock companies out there, from Custom Axis to Elka to Noleen to Fox to Progressive to Works to Ohlins to simple re-valve kits.
There is a big difference between long-travel and standard travel aftermarket shock kits. Long-travel shocks usually provide anywhere from 3 to 4 inches more wheel travel than standard travel setups. Long-travel a-arms are designed in such a way to allow for shocks with actual longer shock bodies than standard travel shocks. The advantages include: better absorption from harder hits, increased adjustability for fine-tuning and a smoother, faster ride — it's worth the money if you tackle big jumps and ride at insane speeds. Otherwise, save your money.
Choose wisely.
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Sep 16, 2006 | 02:16 PM
#9
Extreme Pro Rider
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,908
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A-arms and Shocks
A 13 tooth will make your gearing a little bit lower, so you will need to shift more, and will lose some top speed, but your acceleration can be improved slightly. I'd only recommend that if you do trail riding and need the lower gearing. A 15 tooth makes your gearing higher, so you will get a little more top speed, and won't have to shift quite as much, but you can lose some acceleration off the line because of it. I think yamaha's gearing is usually pretty good all-around for a stock machine, so unless you think you would benefit from the different gearing, i'd just leave it stock.
Sep 16, 2006 | 02:26 PM
#10
Weekend Warrior
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 4
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A-arms and Shocks
hello im form san deigo can you tell me where i can go to made the powder coat to my sheee, i want to put some blue on the frame, and some suspention part's, please let me now, i call 2 places and they tell me will be around 170 dlls for the frame and a small parts