2001 Kodiak 400 ultramatic
#1
I friend of mine called me up and asked me to post a question, so here we go.
He told me that he changed oil in the kodiak, I think he said that he put in 5w-30 in it. Ran it for about 10 minutes, then while checking for leaks, he discovered that it required a different weight of oil. So he drained out the 5w-30 and went and added 10w-40. When he started it up, it idles fine and all, but when in gear , it does not want to pull itself. He said it barely creeps.
Anyone have a clue as to what may be wrong. The motor revs up strong , he said. Just no go. He described the lack of moving being : You could stand in front of it and hold it back while someone had the throttle wide open.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
He told me that he changed oil in the kodiak, I think he said that he put in 5w-30 in it. Ran it for about 10 minutes, then while checking for leaks, he discovered that it required a different weight of oil. So he drained out the 5w-30 and went and added 10w-40. When he started it up, it idles fine and all, but when in gear , it does not want to pull itself. He said it barely creeps.
Anyone have a clue as to what may be wrong. The motor revs up strong , he said. Just no go. He described the lack of moving being : You could stand in front of it and hold it back while someone had the throttle wide open.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
#2
Thats all he did was change oil? No other wrenching?Did he put any additives in...like STP or anything else?
Im thinking that 10w 30 is the oil thats called out in the service manual. And it needs to be SG (non moly )oil.
Did he use a modern auto 5w 30 oil? If it has the start burst symbol, for energy conserving, then its was the wrong oil. Ive never heard of the moly attacking the wet clutch so fast, but its posible that its been coated with moly. Usually, if you just dump the old oil and put the correct oil in, it should reverse the coating on the clutch. But from the sounds of it, hes been rodding on it pretty hard, and now the clutch and hub might be glazed.
No difference in low? How about reverse?
Does the oil level show up on the dipstick?
Im thinking that 10w 30 is the oil thats called out in the service manual. And it needs to be SG (non moly )oil.
Did he use a modern auto 5w 30 oil? If it has the start burst symbol, for energy conserving, then its was the wrong oil. Ive never heard of the moly attacking the wet clutch so fast, but its posible that its been coated with moly. Usually, if you just dump the old oil and put the correct oil in, it should reverse the coating on the clutch. But from the sounds of it, hes been rodding on it pretty hard, and now the clutch and hub might be glazed.
No difference in low? How about reverse?
Does the oil level show up on the dipstick?
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