I change it 1/2 way through the riding season, ive already burned up the stock tires to completely bald so I definitely ride. You have to remember my quad is a 2 stroke, its onlt the trans that is lubricated by the oil I drain. Throw all the BS flags you want, ill have to take pictures of the next one I do.

Cheap insurance isnt needed when you have a quality product.

You think the engine builders came up with those numbers? Your crazy.

 

Hi Turtle,

I notice that you get up to Crown King. We have a small group of retired guys over in Surprise tha ride frequently and get up that way.

I was an ME, but retired. I needed something to do and started auto-cad designs to keep out of trouble.

Best regards from Surprise Az[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

Just addmitt it, Some of you guys are Cheap, Cheap, Cheap. Most 450R owners change their oil around 10 hours or even less. If synthetic is not the way to go then why does all the new Sports cars like the chevoret corvette come from the factor with synthetic oil already in them. To say it just another marking trick is just plain wrong. Go get your wifes favorite skillett and go get it red hot on a camp stove and pour your oil on it, then pour the synthetic on it...which one boils????[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

Just switched to Amsoil 0W40 ATV oil last week. I had been using Yamalube since I bought it new. Many of the guys at the firehouse have been using Amsoil for many years and say switching brought down operating temps by 10-15 degrees. That was enough for me, heat is the killer of engines. I changed all fluids in the Kodiak, and the rear diff fluid was pathetic, brown and thick. It was way overdue for a change, went with the original Yamaha gear lube. Will probably change it again in the spring before another trip to Windrock in TN, just to make sure and get that crap out of my diffs.

 

I know that 500 miles is more often than usually required for oil changes but I would not call it insane. I got started with this many years ago on 2 stroke trannys when a 100 mile enduro was a long ride and then continued on with early air cooled 4 strokes that often ran very hot. I will go a little longer on liquid cooled 4 strokes with large oil capacities in a pinch. I have gone to 2000 miles on my XR650R on a few trips that were mainly easy dirt roads but the oil was dirtier than I like. I now have over 20,000 miles on this motor and it has never been opened up.
Motor oil can be damaged from excess heat, from gasoline contamination, hard clutch operation, metal fragments on cold start up, condensation during start up, water through intake, and polymer shearing in tranny. So my preference is clean $2.00 oil rather than any used $8.00 oil but to each his own.

 

A few thoughts.

1) 99% of the time changing oil at 500 miles is not needed. I bet if you paid $40 for an oil analysis kit even with the dino oil you would find you are wasting money on oil changes.

2) If your ATV calls for a "Wet Clutch" compatible oil, you better use it or by-bye warantee

3) I will use my car for this example, but yes using synthetic DOES save you money. I have a 1995 Honda Accord and use Amsoil in it and change oil every 20,000 miles. Even if you figure $20 an oil change for dino, at only 6 oil changes that is already $120, plus a lot more time involved. It only cost me $37.50 for the Amsoil oil change. That is a big difference to me. On a side note, since I started this my gas mileage has increased a full 2mpg more, = more savings for me [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] I also run it in my Audi A6 (also over 100,000) and neither have EVER had any engine troubles.

4) I had some more things to say, but I just turned 30. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img] And you know what they say about getting older, you loose three things,
1) your health,
2) your memory, and
3) I can't remember what #3 is...

 

kind of a side note I run synth in my S10 blazer and get better milage and don't burn oil in 5k miles ,if Iuse Dino i burn one quart every 3k ,
I'm planning on switching over to synthetic in all my wheelers ,
Just my .02

 

What's a warranty? Most of us own bikes that come with six months or less for a factory warranty anyway.

I realize this doesn't apply to the utility guys.

Buck

 

How is it possible that synthetic oil can stop or minimize an engine from burning oil?
How is it possible for an engine to run cooler with synthetic oil? If you suggest that the dynamic friction is less with synthetic oil then the clutch will have traction problems. If you suggest specific heat, a larger oil cooler would also be required.

Synthetic is fine in my Vet from the MFG. It just does not gather dirty as quickly as the ATV.

Reconcider market magic.

Best regards [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

Just tellin ya what I was told. I will see for my self with this oil change. I think in my unprofessional opinion that diffenrent oils will cool and dissipate heat differently. Kinda the way water, or water with anti-freeze, or just straight anti-freeze, or 50/50 with an additive will make a engine cool differently. I think a synthetic will dissipate and lubricate better than conventional oils, plus the difference in price is Yamalube about $6.50 a quart from Yamaha dealer, and Amsoil $8.05 from a local rep. Ohh a buck fifty five, yea they are really stickin it to me.