I use Rotella synthetic in my enginge and normal Rotella in my tranny but I plan to change that in the summer time (normal Rotella), I go about 10 hours per oil change.

 

All Arctic Cats and Can-ams have 3 years, and I think you can purchase it on others??? But you are right that if your ATV is only 6 months they are better off not even offering one.

 

1) It is better and easier on the seals, thus allowing less oil to blow by.

2) Yes, WAY LESS friction is the cause for it to run at a lower temp. And NO, this doesn't cause the cluth to have traction problems because different additives. Your question is kind of like "if nothing sticks to Teflon, how can Teflon stick to the pan?" Obviously there are ways around it.

Like I said, the proof is in the everyday results. Do your own oil analysis at 3000 miles with dino oil, then switch to synthetic and don't change the oil but test it at 3,000 and again at 10,000 and 20,000. You will see for yourself.

 

I am addressing you with full respect.

1) It is better and easier on the seals, thus allowing less oil to blow by.
Again; how can this be? If the seals (rings and valves) have degraded so that clearances allow the passing of a controlled viscose fluid, then that also exists for other equally viscose fluids. How does the synthetic close the excessives clearances?

2) Yes, WAY LESS friction is the cause for it to run at a lower temp. And NO, this doesn't cause the cluth to have traction problems because different additives. Your question is kind of like "if nothing sticks to Teflon, how can Teflon stick to the pan?" Obviously there are ways around it.
Synthetic oil (by itself and without PTFE) has polymers that resist shear. It will run in engines for long periods of time without viscosity degradation. Petroleum oil will shear and degrade at a higher rate. Synthetic oil will endure much longer than petroleun oil. Dirt in either oil reduces the benefit at an equal rate. My point is that in a clean room situation the synthetic is far better than petroleum oil. In a standard auto engine it would be an advantage. But the real world is different and the accummulation of dirt in ATV's is the limiting factor for both applications.
Synthetic oil with PTFE is by definition the Energy Conserving additive. Without this additive, synthetic and petroleum oils at similar viscosities have similar dynamic coeficients of friction. PTFE permeates the surface molecules and binds in that fashion. Machinist have difficulty when reboring an engine that has been subjected to PTFE, because it is within the other surface molecules. But on the surface it is free to flow in a laminar fashion. I would submit to you that your clutch is not up to its potential if you let PTFE to contact the wear surfaces.

In Summary: The usefulness of synthetic oil (without PTFE) and petroleum oil (without PTFE) are both limited by the accumulation of dirt and not the degradation of viscosity.

There is a place for the synthetic oil with PTFE in my VETT, but in my ATV.

Best Regards [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

i figure it would work really good in a dry-sump engine ,thats synthetic

 

Hey, that doesn't happen too often!!!!! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

Well said, every word is true too.

The list if reasons why your oil can get contaminated above are all things that using synthetic oil prevents. The only reason you have the problem is from the oil your using.

 

I Dont want you guys to get me wrong on the other post i put..

Im just saying when your running shees like we do in 300 foot..and the power we are putting to the ground..the synthetic will make the clutch slip becouse it does work so good...

I mite try some when i do the clutch change next weekend on my stock rappy..I call it my stocker most people would call it there modded raptor..LOL..Its my stock play bike to me..But im thinking of giving it a try when i do the clutch change...Its hard for me to move from yamaha loob couse iv used it so long...

 

I bet if you run your rappy in the 300ft right now and then switch to syn and run it again your times wont drop. Was the mobile 1 you used wet clutch safe or was it just regular mobile 1?

 

The synthetic oil you ran was more of a car oil while the stuff I run in my Banshee is recomended for a wet clutch. It will not soak into your clutch fibers and it will not make the clutch slip in anyway doesnt matter how much HP your cranking out.

http://www.ktm-parts.com/Merchant2/m..._Code=36030002