Take your P-brake off along with all that other garbage on the stock perch, I put a CR perch and lever on mine it looks better and the pull is even easier.

 

You the man, 'cause I do remember when pulling in the clutch the atv would rev out. I bet that's it because it was always the same amount of bog and I do believe that the RPM range that pbrake'e limiter is just past 1/4 throttle , however as stated in previous posts I am still gonna check out the carbs bowl(have to get into it anyways).

 

I could understand to wd40 in the cables but why in the parking brake area wouldn't that keep the sensor or whatever moist?

 

If you don't want to use WD 40, just use some kind of electrical contact cleaner, or wire dry. I have used WD40 on many occasions to remove moisture from spark plug caps as well as these pesky little switches. I would try whatever you have. You can remove the switches and replace the perch with the CR, but i have heard many different ways to disconnect the switch, so i would be sure you know which is the right way. I have heard to just disconnect it, and i have heard to link the the two contacts together. I would hate to damage some electrical component, so ask around if you are unsure !

 

When the parking break is engaged the RPM's are limited to 2,300... I also had the same problem on my Warrior. What i do now after washing the bike is to start the motor and let it idle for a few minutes so it gets nicely warmed up. That normally evaporated any water that has collected on the bike.

Black and White Raptor

 

Problem solved. Can't tell you where the real problem was seeing how I took the carbs off, maintained the air filter and sprayed WD-40 into the P. Brake area. I don't know but the BEAST IS BACK.
Punch,lean,pop,hold