I broke on the other day and found this a sears and it work like a charm. Get one you"ll need it again sometime in your life.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...TOOL&ihtoken=1

 

Yep, left handed drill bit is the answer. Sometimes while drilling the bit will catch the bolt and turn it, which in this case is GOOD because it will start backing the bolt out of the threads. Worst case, you'll end up with a hole in which you can insert an EZOut. (Note that EZOuts are really just specialized left handed bits too.)

You can get left handed drill bits at any machinist's supply house. Your average Home Depot, etc. will not carry them, but a machine shop supply house will have them in any size you want.

Good luck and report back!

 

Thanks for all the help guys,first thing I'm going to try is attaching a smaller diameter bolt onto it with J-B kwik weld and hopefully easing it out..But if that does not work,I will get the lefty drill bit [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]..But first I have to wait on Yamaha to get my new bolt in(as always not in stock)..Ohh well I have to figure out how to change the bearings and seals for the diff anyway..Let the nightmare begin [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img]

 

Update on what worked out for me...That J-B kwik liquid steel stuff did not work(good product gets as hard as a rock,just not on parts with a oil film of any kind on them)

But what I did do that worked was put the sears easy-out bit on a drill(set to reverse)and let it fly in there for a sec or two,that did not turn the broken bolt at all,but it dit mar it some,enough that I was able to use a small flat screw-driver in and slowly turn the bolt till I could grab it with vice-grips and turn it the rest of the way out..

Thanks for all the sugestions,you guys rock [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

these guys have got them in stock oil drain bolt and i guess you might as well get the washer for it too. good luck

 

If I were you, I'd buy me a quality torque wrench and put some Never Seize on the new bolt so I only tighten it to spec, and it never breaks off again.

( I hate do overs).
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

i wouldnt put never seize on it other wise it might not stay in. that happened on my skid plate bolts one time

 

Try thread sealant. Not thread *locker* (i.e. Loctite) but thread *sealant*. Permatex makes one here.

Mercury recommends it for various things on their marine engines. It insures a liquid-tight seal but does not function as a locker. I buy mine at NAPA.

 

how about just some of that thread tape stuff that you put on like air fittings.. the only problem is that you dont want to get any of the gunk or anything in the differential from the thread sealant. i wouldnt bother using any sealant, just use one of those washers ur supposed to.

 

I just changed my wife's SP500 engine oil, the one that has the standalone oil tank, and the Polaris manual specifically says to use thread sealant on the screen fitting in the oil tank. If it's not a problem exposed to the engine oil, I suspect it's not a problem exposed to the differential lube.