Kodiak carburetor
#1
If it's in the owners manual, I missed it, but always run the fuel out of your Kodiak (and probably all.) Just rebuilt carb, no new parts but cleaned the jets and bowl. All were slightly corroded, but the needle valve was sticking. Would run until bowl was dry, then wouldn't start. Let sit for a 1/2 ht or so (bowl would refill) and it would repeat.
It's not too hard to take apart, but be careful of tank bolts. They seem to strip easily when reinstalling because of misalignment. If you don't have a set of (oxy/acetelene) tip cleaners, get a set. They were invaluable.
When putting the bike up for a few days or if you don't know for how long, turn the tank to off and run until carb bowl dry (stalls.)
It's not too hard to take apart, but be careful of tank bolts. They seem to strip easily when reinstalling because of misalignment. If you don't have a set of (oxy/acetelene) tip cleaners, get a set. They were invaluable.
When putting the bike up for a few days or if you don't know for how long, turn the tank to off and run until carb bowl dry (stalls.)
#3
05 Kodiak 450 stored in my garage, but ridden infrequently. Frequency is the biggest problem. Has only 55 Hrs on it. Use it for hynting, so doesn't get a whole lot of use except for Sept - Jan.
#4
Its even worse when you use ethenol blended gas. My motorcycles owners manual states, dont store the bike if ethenol is in the tank....use pure gasoline only. Its ok to drive it with ethenol in the tank, just dont let it sit for awhile with it in there. It dries into flakes and solids, and those end up plugging the small passagaways. The smaller the motor...the smaller the carb..the smaller the passagways. The kids sized quads suffer the worse.
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