I need some help guys.

Today, I replaced my chain tensioners (both of them) along with the bolt that goes through the swinarm that the chain tensioners are attached to. I road it for about 2 hours after this.

Then, I went to go up a highly inclined dirt hill, couldn't make it and tires started to spin. But only my right side tire did, not my left. I thought I was going crazy so I double checked and this happenned again.

So, since my axle nuts are on the left side, the side that is not spinning, is there some type of bearings or something that could be shot causing it to not spin? I'm not stupid when it comes to atvs, just haven't had this type of incident happen before. And how tight should my axle nuts be? As tight as I can or just snug?

Thanks alot!
John

 

Anybody know?

 

If only one tire spins, either your wheel hub is stripped out or the splines on the axle are stripped where the hub slides on. (On the side that doesn't spin) Your bearings and axle nut have nothing to do with this.

 

So, what should I do to fix this? Pop out the left side axle and see if the splines are shot?

 

yes remove the wheel that did not turn and check the engaugement of the splines.if the splines are ok then the only other possibility is that you broke your axsel in two as it is fixed or solid all the way across(one piece) so as one piece it would have to spin both tires.good luck and I hope I was able to help.

 

Was gonna let Raptor450 finish the response, but he went to bed prolly.

Take the left rear wheel hub off. the splines that are damaged are in the hub/axel mechanical connection.

Axels are solid end to end on these things.

I don't see a blaster in your signature entry. I have an 89 that I am about to change over to Hydraulics and will have an extra axel I can give you real cheap if that's where the issue is. Otherwise Ebay for an axel and hubs

I am looking to replace my hubs (already have them, waiting to buy wheels/tires) with banshee/warrior hubs so I will also have the hubs available soon.

keep in touch

 

It's a 96' Blaster (haven't been on these forums in a while, haven't updated it yet).

I'm sorry that I may not be completely understanding.

So, it's most likely the splines from the axle connecting to my hub. I'll check it all out over the next few days and if I do need a new axle or one of the parts you have, then I will most likely just buy it from you if you don't mind.

And by changing to hydraulics, I assume thats the brakes since alot of people change to hydraulic brakes, but why would you need a new axle if your changing to hydraulic brakes? Or, on the 89s', are they drum brakes that your changing to hydraulics which means you need new hubs?

Lol, thanks for the help,
John

 

splines..

 

Changing to Late model Hydraulics, I had to change the bearing carrier, and the axel and the brake rotor, and the bike FRAME and more... Pedal...I even changed the swing arm so it would have the brake line "holders" on it.... There's more also, but that's why the new axel....

The axel gets changed to accomodate the fixed Disc Rotor. The older models, the disc floats on the axel and the mechanical caliper was fixed.

The hub (the part the wheel is attached to with four studs/nuts) is attached to the end of the axel, fitting a nice snug splined axel, held on by one larger nut right in the middle. That nut is exposed at the axel's end and secured by a singly cotter pin.

Just jack up the *** end of the Blaster and look at the center of the left axel end as you turn the tire/wheel. This could be done with the cycle in gear or with park brake engaged. Either will be enough to stop the axel from turning freely. You'll be able to see, without removing anything, where things are not making the connection. Not much studying involved.

 

not possible to spin one side and not the other with out having a broke axel