tlc thanks they seem to be the same

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: TLC

I would just look at the different ATVs schematics at Bike Bandit to see what oil filters are the same.



<span class="FTHighlightFont"> I know the Warrior had a larger carb than a Big Bear maybe it had other upgrades over a Bigbear like hotter cam or compress ratio?[/</span ft>q]

dunno, i know my 99 big bear felt as strong stock as my warrior

 

I checked and since they both use a 3 bolt cover and use the same oil filter P# 13885-001 than its likely that the dia. of the cover is also the same.

Pretty pricey for a cooler though,just find one on Ebay. If I parted out my old Big Bear I would of sold you a oil cooler, lines and filter cover for $50 tops.

 

yea, just did the same, i'm checking on shipping on one on ebay right now.

and thanks I didn't know bike bandit had a schematics on there site..

BIG HELP

 

you can use from a wolverine also. check out www.yamahaoftroy.com they have a microfiche on them. you can order all parts direct from them and they are factory parts. I've ordered from them a few times and are very helpful and easy to deal with

 

The clutch cover method is super easy to do and it makes sure that your freshly cooled oil goes right to the crankshaft bearing and its cheaper than the big bear setup. Also it allows you to run a direct shifter without having to cut and weld a shifter to clear the big bear filter cover.

But just in case here is the parts list for the big bear setup of yfm350central
1995 Big Bear parts list:

1. Plate, Adaptor (Reference #14) - $65.00 USD
2. Plug (Reference #15) - $1.50 USD
3. Spring, Compression (Reference #16) - $1.07 USD
4. Washer, (Reference #17) - $0.21 USD
5. Circlip, (Reference #18) - $0.42 USD
6. Cover, Oil Element (Reference #19) - $22.00 USD
7. 2x Joint (Reference #20) *OPTIONAL* - $13.00 USD
8. 2x Gasket (Reference #21) - $1.65 USD
9. 2x O-Ring (Reference #22) - $2.75 USD
10. Bolt, Hex socket head (Reference #23) - $1.79 USD
11. 2x Bolt (Reference #24) - $2.67 USD

Other Needed Parts:

1. A cooler (Hayden or Permacool) - $29.00 - $39.00
2. Teflon Tape - $1.25
3. 2x 3/8" x 1/4" Barbed hose adapters - $1.60 each (Home Depot plumbing section)
4. 10' of 3/8" Oil hose (1$ a foot) - $10.00


I used a tranny cooler setup from summit racing and here is where I mounted it

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: Octane2079

The clutch cover method is super easy to do and it makes sure that your freshly cooled oil goes right to the crankshaft bearing and its cheaper than the big bear setup. Also it allows you to run a direct shifter without having to cut and weld a shifter to clear the big bear filter cover.



But just in case here is the parts list for the big bear setup of yfm350central

1995 Big Bear parts list:



1. Plate, Adaptor (Reference #14) - $65.00 USD

2. Plug (Reference #15) - $1.50 USD

3. Spring, Compression (Reference #16) - $1.07 USD

4. Washer, (Reference #17) - $0.21 USD

5. Circlip, (Reference #18) - $0.42 USD

6. Cover, Oil Element (Reference #19) - $22.00 USD

7. 2x Joint (Reference #20) *OPTIONAL* - $13.00 USD

8. 2x Gasket (Reference #21) - $1.65 USD

9. 2x O-Ring (Reference #22) - $2.75 USD

10. Bolt, Hex socket head (Reference #23) - $1.79 USD

11. 2x Bolt (Reference #24) - $2.67 USD



Other Needed Parts:



1. A cooler (Hayden or Permacool) - $29.00 - $39.00

2. Teflon Tape - $1.25

3. 2x 3/8" x 1/4" Barbed hose adapters - $1.60 each (Home Depot plumbing section)

4. 10' of 3/8" Oil hose (1$ a foot) - $10.00





I used a tranny cooler setup from summit racing and here is where I mounted it

</end quote></div>

ok, what anout having to cut & weld the shifter??? do you have a pic of it?

 

There is an faq for making a direct shifter work, let me find it
http://yfm350.proboards31.com/...lay&thread=1113797883

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Take note, this is a fairly complex project to make one simple and durable part, but will take a sh*tload of stress out of the warrior's shifting slop. You'll need quite a bit of tig/mig welder experience to complete it, or simply know someone that does + a box of donuts to bribe them to do it. At this point if you wonder if it's worth the trouble, f*ck yeah it is!!! ;D</end quote></div>



<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>You want to keep the bend that goes down the whole lever following the blue line, which gives the lever a little more strength. You'll then want to cut the lever using a diamond cutter or a saw that will leave a clean edge for the future welding. All of the cuts are represented by the yellow lines in the pic. The cut that is at the block with the splines should be right up to the block, leaving no stub, so the round surface of the spline piece is all that's left. Afterwards cut a segment at about 3 1/4" (2 1/2" OUT FROM THE END OF THE SHIFT SHAFT + THE WIDTH OF THE SPLINE PIECE!) further down from the spline removal point on the shifter. Place a brass rod in the splines and clamp it slightly to draw excess heat from the welding, and prevent damaging them. You'll want the threaded side of the spline piece to be pointed up when mounted also, since it will allow the tightening bolt to be applied through the bottom and out of the way of the big bear assembly. If you have to install it through the top, it'll be quite a pain in the ***! &gt;[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img] The welder I used was a tig welder, which allowed easily controlled heat, since you don't want to go too hot on this project. See the diagram below for proper weld bead setup for the 2 1/2" outward segment and the spline piece:</end quote></div>



<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>The segment with the rubber piece should then be welded to the shorter one at a 90deg angle following the image below:</end quote></div>



<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>All of the welds should be done by a experienced welder, just so the weld isn't made too hot, and a very strong bead is made. The lever will be dealing with quite a bit of abuse by a kicking foot, so it's definately a good idea to make it as strong as possible. After all the welds are complete it can then be sanded to prep it for the paint. When I did this I removed all the old paint, and used a moderate grit sandpaper to remove any marks from the clamps used to straighten the lever initially. The paper should also leave a roughened surface for the paint to stick to. I used a gloss black for the color, but anything can be used here to apply about three coats, one every ten minutes or so. The ten minute interval is to allow each coat to half dry and just become tacky for the next coat to stick to. Allow the lever to dry for about a day or so afterwards, hanging it up by the rubber piece so the paint can completely dry. Here is a pic of mine when I finished it, sorry it's a little dark and dirty!</end quote></div>

 

thats my clutch cover oil cooler setup

 

If i do the one in the side case is there any reason i need to go back to where the oil filter is??? or have you done both?