So if everything is testing out good, and i have a neutral light that turns on, is it the CDI?

 

I took every connector off the bike, sprayed Di-electric grease in them and reconnected them. Question- Are one of the fuses on the solenoid just a spare? I ask because i have 2 solenoids and neither seems to have an electrical connection inside the fuse socket on one side. Anybody have any luck with their no-starts yet?

 

Well my "it's definatlly not the battery" was wrong. Mine turned out to be the battery It also showed fully charged (12.6 vdc) all the lights worked and everything the only thing it would not do is start.

Try disconnecting the wire from the solenoid to the starter and hit the start button you should heard the solenoid close momentarily. If it does take the starter over to your car battery ground the starter case with a jumper and bump the hot wire to the pos post. One of these should tell you whats wrong or at least it worked for me.

 

All this stuff checks out good. Do u think its my cdi box?

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: Ujoint

The Raptor and Grizzly work the same way, the only difference is the wire colors to the solenoid.

Red = battery power to ignition switch

Blue/black = ground from start button

Yellow/black (Raptor) or Blue/white (Grizzly) = Neutral (or brake) permissive from CDI



The Blue/black wire is a ground when the start button is pressed - to test your start button wiring, jump a wire from the battery ground to the Blue/black wire on the solenoid - if it starts, you've got a problem in the start button system. Can even be dirty contacts in the start button itself.



The Yellow/black (or Blue/white) is the positive side of the solenoid relay - you should have 12 VDC at this terminal when the quad is in Neutral.</end quote></div>

IF all of these check out good - I would have to say you have a ground problem, a connection problem, OR a bad battery (but this step would have been eliminated by whether or not the ground from the battery to the blue/black wire on the solenoid)

 

So today i returned my new battery for a brand spankin new one, charged it up, and it never helped. I tested everything out and it all seems good. The Problem: I have 12v on one side of the solenoid cables, but not the other, even when i hit the start button. The solenoid appeared to be working great based on the loud click i get, i just figured it was working. I tried to swap out the solenoid for an old one that i had and while doing this, cracked the case of the solenoid because i had the bolts torqued down so tight. So the it must be the solenoid right? It wasnt switching power even when bypassing the starter switch at the solenoid. I think im going to try one of those tractor solenoids mentioned above. Will i have any problem leaving the yellow/black wire disconnected from the solenoid? Should i use a car solenoid that has a provision for it?

 

from what iv read in this thread, id say its the solenoid. you should be able to jump the starter right to the battery. just put a jumper wire right on the solenoid where the + wire goes into the solenoid and the big wire that goes from the sol. to the starter. if it starts, its the sol.

to test this for sure, have someone pull you and try pull starting it. but 1st make sure that your key and your kill switch works. do this by checking your neutral light. if that checks, put it in gear and try to start it without the clutch in. if the oil light comes on in the dash, that means the electrical part is working correcly. now, like i sadi, have someone pull you. put it in 2nd or 3rd gear and drop the clutch. if it starts, its not the cdi.

id put money on it its the solenoid though... and if you are having trouble keeping them from going bad, there may be other problems.

 

I totally agree with you. I have pull started it and it runs. I know why the solenoids are burning up tho. When i try to start it, it turns over very slow and hard. I have taken the valve cover off, and cam out, checked the compression release cams and put it all back together with the cam gear and the chain in the original position. Now my question is, what is making this thing have such high compression during starting? Im lucky to get 10 revolutions on a charged battery before it poops. 2 brand new batteries by the way. This is not the case with the plug out. The valves are adjusted. I think all the draw from the starter is frying the solenoids. What gives?

 

hi i just read your post and i misread it and jumped the yellow and black wire to the battery ground now when i try to start thier is nothing and the oil light comes on did i fry my cdi?

 

i read ujoints post