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Skid Plates

Old Jun 30, 2008 | 07:31 PM
  #1  
immerume2's Avatar
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Default Skid Plates

So I have read through a fair amount of posts on skid plates on this sight. It looks like most people are down for richochet and GYTR. I found some plates on Ebay that are half the price of any richochet plates I found out there. Below is a sample link to those plates. Has anyone either tried plates like these or able to say if these plates would be any good? I just want to make sure that if I go with Richochet over something like these that it would be worth it. Thanks.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...116QQitemZ300234938065
 
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 10:42 PM
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Default Skid Plates

Ok

You need to ask the seller the following questions:

1) How THICK?
2) Which type of Aluminum? You want 5052 for Skids
3) How do they mount ( GYTR Yamaha skids have dimples to protect the bolt heads)


Some GYTR Skids are only 1/8" thick ... which for main skids (bash, belly, rear diff) that is on the thin side. Skids should be AT LEAST 3/16" thick to be worth while... well at least for the riding I do [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] Rock central! My Front Skid and Footwell skids are custom made by ME [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] and the bash is 1/4" 5052 with no mounting bolts exposed to rocks [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img] and the Footwell skids are made from 3/16" 5052 and I used carriage bolts (with knurled necks - to prevent them from rotating) to mount them to the floorboards.

Check out my profile for photos of my skids [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
 
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 10:42 PM
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As long as it provides good protection... They'd be worth it...

I personally don't like how all of the holes are bubbled out w/ the extra weld... They shouldn't catch on too much I suppose...

I would rather they be recessed though..
 
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 09:00 AM
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Default Skid Plates

Thanks for the info on questions to ask.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 05:15 PM
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Default Skid Plates

So I asked and he replied.

Q[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img]lease advise Aluminum thickness grade and mounting info.

A:.125, 6061-T6 Aircraft Grade Aluminum. Rubber coated steel clamps will not loosen or rattle Thanks!!!

Looks like they are on the thin side like at 1/8". The thing I know nothing about is the 6061-t6 grade. Is that better or worse than 5052? Thanks.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 09:11 PM
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WHen are you going to quit talking up those skids and make me some[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
 
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 10:48 PM
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yeah right... half of you guys have more mechanical inteligence in your pinky than I have total.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 10:56 PM
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I would not buy those skids! My dad ordered one for his 700 Prairie and it didnt fit. The hole were way off! Then we ordered one for our 650 Brute Force and we had to send it back twice and the thid one still had one hole messed up so we drilled out a little on eah hole so the bolt wouldn't go through!
 
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 11:00 PM
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Thanks for the warning. I will keep looking at the more reputable ones.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 11:09 PM
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I was curious myself and did a little research. it appears that aluminum is classified by numbers. going from 1000 on up. 1000 being the purest. 5000 type is very strong, almost like steel. but it is hard and doesn't flex much and is harder to weld. 6000 type is more commercially used, very easy to weld. its the type they use for boats and resists corrosion better. look up aluminum on wikipedia. I found it an interesting read.
the price is good for the skids, especially since they come with the ones for the a-arms. I paid that much just for my chassis skid. check with their website as it may be cheaper than e-bay
 
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