Hello All,

Any reason why the magneto woodruff key /shear key /roll pin keeps shearing as I try to start it?

Thnaks
Chuck

 

u dont have the center nut tight enough and prob missing a washer, unless the threads are effed

 

Yup, I just bought another bike for parts and the magneto was banged off with a hammer and the threads were pretty shitty. I used a 12MM 1.25 pitch die and rethreaded the crankshaft and bought a new nut but its not right. I can really get it snugged but maybe not snug enough Is there any workaround? What is the purpose of a key ( safety issue)

I think if I can reinstall the magneto again, but use a large socket over the magneto center and tap it as far as it will go. I wont have to use the nut to compress the magneto on the shaft causing less stres and no shear

FYI.

I am not a butcher. Iit was already butched [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img])


Chuck

 

Hello,

I bought the woodruff key / Roll pin for the magneto side of the crank from the yamaha dellership . I went to home depot and matched it up to a 3/32 x 1/2" key. I will try it tonight and see if it works
Chuck

 

put a few washers between the nut and the flywheel, or a lock washer. It has to be tight or ull be doin the key everytime u get it started

 

I appreciate your help. I have the bushing added with a washer. I was able to tap down on the magneto and got it started and ran for a minute and stalled with a sheared key. Home depot has the part and works fine 3/32 x 1/2 ". I am going to spend a few hours and replace the crank and do it right. I have a brand new crank and will use that. I disaasembled an old lower unit and I feel confident on doing this. As you can see I am new to the motorcycle world but not a dumbass [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]. I plan to do this in the next few weeks and will keep you posted. I bypassed the TORS circuit and still have the injector pump installed. Do I need to do anything different with these?
Chuck

 

I have rebuilt the bottom half and the engine runs fine now. The only issue i am dealing with right now is the clutch adjustment from the clutch basket case. The clutch is not fully disengaging and will pop out of gear on a load.

Thanks
Chuck

 

hopefully u still have the lil ball between the pushrods that go to the clutch release.

 

If all your parts are correct you just need to set the set screw in the middle of the clutch that has the jam nut on it. My son completely destroyed a clutch at one of the races, luckily our partners had a spare but it took taking the clutch cover off 3 times to get it adjusted right. We learned that a little turn makes a big difference.

 

Hello,

Yup, The little ball is installed. I did see a breif mention on adjustments but it seems like trial and error. I hate to drain the oil and try again. Is there any particular order the clutches / pressure plates go in order? I know the wavy ring goes in after the first set of clutches.

thanks

Chuck