Howdy guys, been a while since I've hit the forums--much thanks to my reliable bike. Anyhow, took the week off work and on a whim decided to dump some more time and money into my already bottomless pit (and to anyone who ever thinks about spending a ton of money on a Warrior--don't do it, unless you are nuts like me and just hate the way the new bikes ride)

Anyway, I stripped the bike down to bare frame and got a nice new paint job on it, got some +2 A arms up front and all the accesories to dress the bike up from my rebuild last winter and pics are coming soon!

 

When replaced my clutch on the warrior, i made the mistake about switching one of the plates with a different diameter ( i guess theres 2) and when i put everything back together i had a simular problem. Also it could be that not all the plates are fitting tightly in the basket. It took me awile to finally get it to work.
Not sure if this could help you out.

 

Put a Barnett in a buddy's warrior couple years back, ran into a similar problem, ended up being that the rings or ring I cant remember if it came with one or more but it has to be in the right spot, id check that out first, then play with the arm on the clutch cover and if you dont get tension then idk lol don't know much about warriors. Hope this helps.

 

Well I haven't gotten the bike running yet thanks to a fried CDI, but my Dynatek is due in tommorow so we will see on Friday.

 

there is a small ball in between the push rods that will some times fall out while changing the clutch plates and if it is not there u will not be able to put enough tension to work the cluch . to check if this is the problem just pull the presure plate off ond look down the center of the trans input shaft and you should be able to see it in there . i had the same problem on my banshee and it has the same clutch as the warrior i know this because my nephew has a warrior. I hope this helps

 

also if you used after market clutch disks like the barnett kevlars you are not suppost use the coushining rings

 

Alright guys, my Dynatek CDI came in today and I'll be damned if after sitting on the bench disassembled for 7 months, putting this motor back together just last week and the new Dyna CDI and she fired right up on the first turn over! Anyhow, on to my problem. Put my new Barnett clutch in (wish I would've read up on them before I got it...) and it will not disengage. The quad goes in gear (and reverse), but I can rev it to the heavens without being on the clutch and it doesn't do jack squat--doesn't even budge. I am nearly certain I put it all together right--but it was my first clutch experience. I have played with the actuator on the outside of the cover and such and my cable tension but I have ruled that all out. Anything to look for when I pull the side cover tommorow? Also, can anyone give me a diagram of the exact right routing of the cable, my uncle took it out and he doesn't recall how to route it. At this juncture I am thinking something isn't right with the push pin, but I really do not know what the hell is going on, and I am going riding Saturday! Obviously any clutch should work similar to this one so any advice would be great. Thanks!

 

Got the clutch fixed--called Barnett and after talking to them for a few we figured out the shop sold me a damn Banshee clutch, which has a thinner stack, about the size of one steel plate--so I just threw one of my old steels in there and my lord this bike now has some **** and get. I think my old clutch must have been absolutely awful, because it definitely didn't have this much power when I first built it up last winter; well and the new Dynatek CDI had to help as well. Still getting a slight miss when I'm wide open going through the gears so I have to go do some rejetting and plug chopping, joy joy. I'll try and get some pics up tonight, and I am going to Haspin Acres tommorow so I'll get a few action pics for you all. I'm stoked--this bike has never continuously pulled the front wheels off the ground while going through every gear.

Current Specs
-Ported and Polished head
-.040" over w/ Wiseco 10.25:1 High Compression Piston
-Web Camshafts .430" Cam
-Titanium Valve Springs/Retainers
-FMF PowerBomb Header
-HMF Sport Slip-On pipe
-K&N Air Filter
-Dynatek CDI
-Barnett Clutch
-ASR +2 A Arms/Tie Rods/Ends
-Braided Stainless Brake Lines
-Razr2's in front
-MudLite XL's in back

 

Hey guys, just finished uploading my photos of the rebuild and photos and vids from Haspin Acres today to my Photobucket http://s469.photobucket.com/al...56/beefywarrior46172/

Unfortunately my day was cut short by a broken chain--but luckily I did no damage. Off to order the X-ring and a new rear sprocket to stick on with it! Other than the chain breaking she ran great, just ran somewhat on the lean side so I'm just gonna stick a 155 or 157.5 main in there (152.5 right now) and that ought to take care of it.

 

Looks good. One thing with the ASR a-arms is to oil the heim joints regularly. You made a wise decision with the tie-rod end ball joints instead of the heim joints. I had the heim joints on mine and they sucked!