Grizzly 600 wet clutch question
#1
Grizzly 600 wet clutch question
Well..I fixed the carb....I replaced the primary sheave, weights and cam...they were toasted....but I have a clutch issue.
When I idle, in neutral, the sheaves turn...which they should not. The should be sitting and not turn until a bit of throttle is applied.
If I toss it in gear the bike jumps a bit since the sheaves are turning. Then quickly they stop turning and you can hear the clutch start wine ( wet clutch).
If you toss it back into neutral the sheaves will not turn for a few moments and the wine will continue but...slowly the sheaves will start to turn and the clutch wine will decrease slowly in correspondance with the sheaves turning.
Obviously this is not correct.
I took off the wet clutch cover and the clutch housing and one way bearing work correctly per the manual and the clutch shoes do not look burnt or owrn....so WTF.
scott
When I idle, in neutral, the sheaves turn...which they should not. The should be sitting and not turn until a bit of throttle is applied.
If I toss it in gear the bike jumps a bit since the sheaves are turning. Then quickly they stop turning and you can hear the clutch start wine ( wet clutch).
If you toss it back into neutral the sheaves will not turn for a few moments and the wine will continue but...slowly the sheaves will start to turn and the clutch wine will decrease slowly in correspondance with the sheaves turning.
Obviously this is not correct.
I took off the wet clutch cover and the clutch housing and one way bearing work correctly per the manual and the clutch shoes do not look burnt or owrn....so WTF.
scott
#3
Grizzly 600 wet clutch question
Well I had the oil changed by a private atv/motorcycle mechanic a few weeks back when he did some other maint. I would assume (not that I should) that he would have used ATV oil.
Now, if you use a car motor oil with a friction additive it will generally make the clutch slip instead of grab like I am having.
I did read alot of threads where people used car oil with friction additives and they dicked it up when it started slipping.
This is the opposite issue...it is grabbing while idling.
The clutch housing seems fine...the clutch shoes seem a bit worn...maybe that is it...but again usually it will slip.
Has me stumped for the moment. It is not a cheap proposition to just replace the housing, and clutch shoes....each is about 230.00 bucks.....hate to just shotgun fix it at that cost.
I was even thinking could something be warped out of shape causing it to grab slightly.
Of course, it did not do it before I had it sericed with the oil change so...?
Scott
Now, if you use a car motor oil with a friction additive it will generally make the clutch slip instead of grab like I am having.
I did read alot of threads where people used car oil with friction additives and they dicked it up when it started slipping.
This is the opposite issue...it is grabbing while idling.
The clutch housing seems fine...the clutch shoes seem a bit worn...maybe that is it...but again usually it will slip.
Has me stumped for the moment. It is not a cheap proposition to just replace the housing, and clutch shoes....each is about 230.00 bucks.....hate to just shotgun fix it at that cost.
I was even thinking could something be warped out of shape causing it to grab slightly.
Of course, it did not do it before I had it sericed with the oil change so...?
Scott
#5
Grizzly 600 wet clutch question
Well there are a few things I have noticed in the past few hours of working on it.
First off...prior to to taking off the primary sheave and clutch bearing housing I was looking closely at the primary sheave as it ran.
While the shaft is straight you can see the whole sheave and shaft move for and aft as the engine revs and then downrevs.
I would imagine this is why the newer 660 had a bearing retainer cage installed...to hold this shaft from moving under the torque of the engine reving up.
The older 600 does not have a bearing retainer type cage around the outer shaft and surrounding the sheaves.
Also when i took the clutch housing out and too this apart the main bearing retainer clip on the inside is not what is diplsayed in the manual for 600. The one in the manual goes about 180 degress around that large bearing in what is called the bearing housing..which is the large aluminum cover or housing that the clutch housing is installed in
Instead mine is held by a retainer that is only held in by two screws and only goes about 1/3 the way around that large bearing. It does not look to be broken...looks made that way...yetb there is an empty screw hole where the other part of the bearing retainer should be screwed into.
So, I am suspicious that the sheave movement I see (remember the sheaves are attached to the shaft of the clutch housing)...is do to this large bearing not being held in completely and may wiggle under torque very slightly. I definately see the whole clutch shaft end with sheaves move a bit for and aft under acceleration and this can't be goo. That would mean that on the other side where the clutch housing is that that end is moving slightly and what is in there ....the clutch shoes.
I also noticed the outer edges of the clutch shoes/pads (whatever) are nicked and have some small chunks missing...so maybe this is the issue.
I can see why the 660 has the this outer bearing keeper/cage installed to counter this torque on the shaft.
I will have to order a new retainer clip and bearing...and probably new clutch assembly (housing is fine pads are not).
I wonder if anyone else with an older 600 Griz has seen this.
scott
First off...prior to to taking off the primary sheave and clutch bearing housing I was looking closely at the primary sheave as it ran.
While the shaft is straight you can see the whole sheave and shaft move for and aft as the engine revs and then downrevs.
I would imagine this is why the newer 660 had a bearing retainer cage installed...to hold this shaft from moving under the torque of the engine reving up.
The older 600 does not have a bearing retainer type cage around the outer shaft and surrounding the sheaves.
Also when i took the clutch housing out and too this apart the main bearing retainer clip on the inside is not what is diplsayed in the manual for 600. The one in the manual goes about 180 degress around that large bearing in what is called the bearing housing..which is the large aluminum cover or housing that the clutch housing is installed in
Instead mine is held by a retainer that is only held in by two screws and only goes about 1/3 the way around that large bearing. It does not look to be broken...looks made that way...yetb there is an empty screw hole where the other part of the bearing retainer should be screwed into.
So, I am suspicious that the sheave movement I see (remember the sheaves are attached to the shaft of the clutch housing)...is do to this large bearing not being held in completely and may wiggle under torque very slightly. I definately see the whole clutch shaft end with sheaves move a bit for and aft under acceleration and this can't be goo. That would mean that on the other side where the clutch housing is that that end is moving slightly and what is in there ....the clutch shoes.
I also noticed the outer edges of the clutch shoes/pads (whatever) are nicked and have some small chunks missing...so maybe this is the issue.
I can see why the 660 has the this outer bearing keeper/cage installed to counter this torque on the shaft.
I will have to order a new retainer clip and bearing...and probably new clutch assembly (housing is fine pads are not).
I wonder if anyone else with an older 600 Griz has seen this.
scott
#7
Grizzly 600 wet clutch question
Yes I did....and yes They did...or atleast I know they tried to grease the sheaves. Except they just took off the cover over the cam and crammed grease in there...which does nothing.
I am replacing clutch parts in sections...the clutch housing looks near perfect..so it can stay.
The bearing housing that the clutch housing is set into has a crack I found...and it may be warped so it is gone...as will the bearing and it's clip. Probably replace the clutch shoes too......dang this is getting expensive....but hey...I know it will be right.
nothing like idiots with a wrench ( not me...them...previous owners).....and even the dealers mechaincs are not that swift either. They kept telling me to clean and regrease the sheaves.....hey morons..that has nothing to do with the clutch!!
scott
I am replacing clutch parts in sections...the clutch housing looks near perfect..so it can stay.
The bearing housing that the clutch housing is set into has a crack I found...and it may be warped so it is gone...as will the bearing and it's clip. Probably replace the clutch shoes too......dang this is getting expensive....but hey...I know it will be right.
nothing like idiots with a wrench ( not me...them...previous owners).....and even the dealers mechaincs are not that swift either. They kept telling me to clean and regrease the sheaves.....hey morons..that has nothing to do with the clutch!!
scott