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Installed needle and seat today- now problem

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  #11  
Old 09-26-2009, 06:55 PM
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deffinitly do the spring. nicest part about it is that it really doesnt cost anything!
 
  #12  
Old 10-02-2009, 11:09 PM
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I'm bummed... I pulled off the bowl again tonight, sprayed through the jets and verified they're clean. Then swapped the spring with a clicker pen spring as suggested above. The pen spring was same exact size but, a little tougher as suggested above. I still have the same issue with it dying if I stab the throttle when idling in neutral. it starts quick and idles perfect. If I ease on the throttle, it's fine. If I nail the throttle from idle, it immediately dies.

Any other ideas what to check out?
 
  #13  
Old 10-03-2009, 06:49 AM
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That is puzzling, the spring should have fixed it, mine was horrible until I did that, have you taken the side plastic cover off and verified the accel pump rod is not getting stuck down, sometimes a burr on the pump rod lower end will bind on the bowl,and cause it to hang up. I even ended up adjusting the pump lever in the carb to make sure the gap from the arm to the rod was small, you want almost immediate output from the accel pump , take the air box off (and boot to carb) so you can look into the throat of the carb, then hit the gas, if you don't see a stream of gas going into the slide area, you could have a plugged or partly plugged passage. Let us know what you find.
 
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Old 10-03-2009, 11:56 AM
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As usual, 95wolv is giving super good advice. Check for the pump shot as he said.
 
  #15  
Old 10-03-2009, 04:52 PM
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You are too kind, Doc, just passing along some hard learned lessons, the first year I had my Wolverine ( 95 had Warrior carb, 96 on up was a CV type), my carb was an intermittant nightmare, so I had to find out the hard way what worked and what didn't.
 
  #16  
Old 10-07-2009, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 95wolv
That is puzzling, the spring should have fixed it, mine was horrible until I did that, have you taken the side plastic cover off and verified the accel pump rod is not getting stuck down, sometimes a burr on the pump rod lower end will bind on the bowl,and cause it to hang up. I even ended up adjusting the pump lever in the carb to make sure the gap from the arm to the rod was small, you want almost immediate output from the accel pump , take the air box off (and boot to carb) so you can look into the throat of the carb, then hit the gas, if you don't see a stream of gas going into the slide area, you could have a plugged or partly plugged passage. Let us know what you find.
How did you adjust the gap on the pump lever? I have a 2002 Warrior and the arm that pushes the pump rod is plastic and there is at least a 1/8" to 3/16" gap between the two. At WOT the pump rod barely goes down, not enough to shoot any extra fuel in. Thanks for the help.
 
  #17  
Old 10-07-2009, 02:26 PM
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adjusting the pump arm is borderline "screwing with the factory design",but in some cases is necessary. To do it,you need to bend the metal plate holding the nut on the pivot rod,then carefully remove teh pump arm and the metal bracket behind,make good note how the spring winds on there,maybe take a digital close up shot to help you. you will see an arm and tab that push down on the plastic arm that works the rod, it takes trial and error, but bend the assembly a little at a time, put it all back together, and see how it affected the gap. You will probably have to take it apart several times to get it right ,too little,too much,and it will make a large difference. Sorry for the vague instructions, it has been years since I had to fiddle with mine,and it is easier to show than to tell it. I'll be glad to help in any way I can if you have any more questions.
 
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Old 10-10-2009, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 95wolv
I even ended up adjusting the pump lever in the carb to make sure the gap from the arm to the rod was small, you want almost immediate output from the accel pump , .
Hmmm.. this might be my problem. I have a good 1/8" of space between the white plastic cam that hits the accel pump rod and the actual rod. Where/how did you adjust the pump lever to decrease that gap? I have the black plastic cover off the carb and can't find anything to bend or adjust so the white plastic hits the accel pump rod quicker.
 
  #19  
Old 10-10-2009, 04:43 PM
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You have to take off the plastic arm to see the metal arc with a round barrel end that actually moves the plastic arm, the big thing is making sure the spring that tensions the arm is put back on right,there are a few small parts that can mover around on you while you try to put it back together.Wish I had my camera to take a few shots for you, it is hard to describe what to do, but when you take it apart,you will see the metal arm that needs to be "adjusted".
 
  #20  
Old 05-16-2012, 09:32 PM
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i did the click pen spring swap and did the arm bend to reduce the gap between the top of the accl pump rod and the plastic arm its only got 1/32" gap now. im still having that problem. stab throttle and it chokes out. i verified that the jet thing isnt clogged and is squirting fuel into the slide area and its fine. SO frustrating....checked the diaphram and the carb boot for holes/tears and nothing its fine. on the street as long as i feather the throttle at start then romp on it its fine, it'll pull a wheelie. shift hard into second and stab the throttle, no lack of power or hesitation. same through 3rd 4th 5th and 6th.......WTF?
 


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