Embarrassing, but tru; I'm hoping a working tech cruises here sometime tonight! I work in a very small shop, and mostly all we get are nearly unsolvable problems, and my current ne isn '03 Grizzly with a starting issue: I have gone trough almost all of the steps, and here's where I'm at for my morning's work tomorrow: The starting circiut diagram shows that the starter relay gets its primary power from a pinout on the CDI, the Blue wire with the White tracer. That wire has continuity from the multiplug from the CDI to it's other end, which goes on the starter relay. The completion wire comes from the left -hand combo switch's pushbutton. That switch is defective, but my starter button (generic) suffices for test purposes. I have a new starter relay installed and I cannot get any juice from the CDI piout to the relay. Since I know the other wire (Blue/Black tracer) is to complete a ground, the Blue/White wire has to give 12 volts to the primary side of the relay, and there are no switches interrupting it anyway. The factory manual is somewwhat ineffective in assisting an old Dog like me, so I turn to this forum which has helped me many times in the recent past. Lastly, even though the ignition system appears to be an altenator-driven current generator type, a starting relay has to have battery voltage at one of the 2 primary connectors, ajnd this one does not. When I started this job, a simple jump across the 2 secondary terminals produced a running engine. In all fairness, I'll have to say I am likely the culprit who "deflated" the OEM starter pushbutton switch's small spring, which is why I'm going to have to replace it. I started the job a few days ago withut a manual, then got one.

As always, any help sure would be appreciated, Tarzy

 

Is your cdi good.. I have had some cdi go bad on that circuit... do you have the signal before cdi?

 

Before I go further, let me say this bike came in having only a starting problem as in the pushbutton gave no results. My Boss said he believed it was a bad starting relay. Turns out it was, but there's more to it than that. The old relay had an intermittent, and the new one (K&L aftermarket) would not work at all. So from there, I tore the whole bike apart, started with the diode in the front (it was fine), and worked my way back to the CDI area. Again, the factory manual sucks big time, because it is for a tech who has gone to service school; otherwise, no sane person could make that much sense of it. Waay too many voids in info. The customer came in yesterday afternoon and said it started in park, but nothing else. Indeed it did. This morning when I went back on the job, intensly frustrated with the lack of clear info, the Park portion even started to malfunction. however, in tracing down points of the schematic, I got the bright idea to bypass/jump the left handlebar perch switch, and subsequesntly figured out with the schematic's help it is not a rear brake light switch. That is handled by the one on the foot pedal, and the perch switch is the mysterious "rear brake switch", which overrides the other starting system interuppters, such as the gear position switch, the neutral switch, etc. The perch switch is used the most of any of the switches, as everyone knows it allows starting in gear, and so on. This switch had not continuity in the closed position, so out it goes! Since the neutral light is out in the combo instrument display, I do not yet know if the starting circuit will function with my bypass in neutral, but I guess it will. I'm still wondering if the gear position switch's functionality can be manipulated by adjusting the shift rod. To get the park light to come on, one has to force it hard to the rear, which seems abnormal. alla, in all, by replacing the said perch swith (rear brake switch) and the left combo switch, we do have a bike that will start properly. However, it has always been my goal to make things work as they came from the manufacturer, unless their engineering was craop, and then I make it work the way I want. In the case of Yamaha, having set them up for a couple of years in the '07-'08 model years, I have come to regard most of their engineering as sound. Same as when I used to roadrace TZ's 30+ years ago.

I throw all of this windy info in here in hopes of it helping someone else who came along the same path. I'll follow up when I'm done and close this thread; a;l; I have to do is learn how to "close a thread".

Regards to the Community, Tarzy!