So I went back out to the garage after everyone went to sleep to put fresh eyes on it. I was able to see a small pool of fresh engine oil on the aluminum lip of the output flange. Upon further inspection, I was able to notice that on the seal, at 9'oclock, a small piece of the inner edge was missing, allowing some fluid to leak out, on occasion. I'd also assume it could allow water/moisture to leak in as well. So I've ordered a new seal, and boot+clamps for good measure.

Anyone have any good tricks for removing the U-joint from the yoke? C-clamp & sockets?

Regards...

 

Wolverene may be totally different to other Yams but on Big Bears etc you don't split the UJ, you pull the whole swinging arm assembly off. Seal replacement is also a complete nightmare, as it has to come out from inside the transfer box, requiring transfer box removal and dis-assembly. Wolverenes may be different. First job, get a worrkshop manual.

 

 

 

Hey how did you make out with the rear main seal change? I’m pretty sure I have the same problem

 

I was successful. It wasn’t easy, but it wasn’t that hard either. Mild frustration.

It’s been some time since I did it, I’m trying to recall a procedure.

I didn’t have/use any special tools. I do recall I had to brace the yoke that’s attached to the output shaft with some sockets and socket extensions. One in each side. I had to match the ID of the ujoint hole with the OD of the sockets. The extension were braced against the bikes frame, while I used a breaker bar on the output shaft nut.

The seal is fragile, and expect oil to pour out once the seal is out.

I used a large socket to install the new one, evenly.

Overall, it was just frustrating enough for my wife to ask if we should take her identical 07 W450 to a professional for hers to be replaced.

I ended up parlaying that frustration credit I had earned with my wife and used it on just trading both Wolverines in on an identical pair of 21 Kodiak 450 EFI EPS SE’s. Same motor, but EFI, EPS, IRS, +low range gearing, front diff lock, permanent sealed rear brakes (no squeak), OE installed Warn 2500, and no immediate pending maintenance. I can ride all day on 1-1.5g of gas, and feel zero fatigue.

Also, the trade in was more than I bought the Wolverines for when they were new, a decade ago.

 

Awesome thanks! Do you recall if you had to pull the rear end or is their enough room to get it out without?

 

The swing arm absolutely has to be pulled.

I supported the bike on blocks up front, and a pair of 10K trucker straps up to my garage rafters for the rear.

This also afforded me the opportunity to use a very long arbor with a wire-wheel attached to clean an absurd amount of surface rust on the inside of the swing arm tube. Which is poorly sealed from water intrusion. (Which once you see it and realize, means that a failed rear seal will allow water into your engine.). After I wire wheeled the tube, I fogged the inside with some spray paint, to slow future corrosion. You might as well drain both diffs, and check the seal on (at least) the rear diff while the swing arm is off the bike, and then refill the diffs with new gear oil.

Come to think of it, I might have used the swing arm mounting holes on the frame to run the yoke-bracing socket extensions into.