Kodiak 450 won't start
#1
Machine worked perfectly fine. I started it in -20c, like always. Warmed it up for 10-15 minutes. I backed up about a foot and heard a clunk and it shut off. When pressing the starter button, all I heard was a clink noise. I put a heater on and a tarp over it and tried again in an hour. I heard a screech noise when I tried this time. It turned over super slow. Tried boosting it but now all that happens is a click noise from the rear of the quad. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.
#4
No pull start. I could lift the back end and put it in gear, wrap rope around the tire and pull that. See what happens. Where would I start with a rebuild? That's something I've never faced before. Thanks for the replies.
#5
Buy a manual and watch youtube videos if your mechanically inclined. If your not take it to a professional. Or sell the machine. If your lucky it will just be the top end But if your piston broke you will have pieces in the cases and you will have to split the cases. How many hrs or miles are on the machine?
#6
Thanks guys. I'm confident enough to mess around with whatever I have to. I guess I'll get a service manual and take it from there. Any recommendations for parts? I know oem are usually a bit more expensive than some after market stuff.
#7
Partzilla,Cycle Parts Warehouse,Bike Bandit,Rocky Mountain atv to name a few. Prices and shipping vary between all of them,just check. You might get lucky on a free one of these. Some are misleading though. https://www.google.com/search?client....0.Y4vvNmfxBKs Tradebit does have them for whatever year model you have though.There may be places that are cheaper unless you want a hard copy.https://www.tradebit.com/filesharing...h/0/kodiak+450
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#9
"No pull start. I could lift the back end and put it in gear, wrap rope around the tire and pull that."
No good, the centrifugal clutch will make it free wheel in one direction, and all that transmission drag will give a false impression of how stiff the engine is.
There should be a cover where the pull start would go, if you remove it, the crankshaft will be underneath with something, (nut, bolt, two flats machined on) that you can turn it with. If it is seized, don't assume it is piston seizure unless you have run it without oil. However, removal of head and cylinder is a good place to start looking.
No good, the centrifugal clutch will make it free wheel in one direction, and all that transmission drag will give a false impression of how stiff the engine is.
There should be a cover where the pull start would go, if you remove it, the crankshaft will be underneath with something, (nut, bolt, two flats machined on) that you can turn it with. If it is seized, don't assume it is piston seizure unless you have run it without oil. However, removal of head and cylinder is a good place to start looking.
#10
watch some videos on youtube a few times it really helps you understand the manual instructions try turning it over with a 17mm wrench first but don't pull on it too hard in case you have broken piston in the case. But you do want to try to get it at TDC begore you remove the top end Look into specialty tools you might need before you start like flywheel puller and torque wrenches and good luck. Make sure you take the head to get the valves ground and put new valve seals in since its common for them to go out.




