Hey, so I have a 2007 Yamaha Raptor 350SE it stopped working so we firgurfi we replace the carb, but here's the thing I don't know how to do all this. So I think I put it on right but I don't know how to adjust it. Also when I try to start it if I try for a lil too long fuel starts to drip from the carb. Really it just won't start though I don't even know if it was a carb issue but not that I swapped it out it definitely is.
​​ I'd like to know what I have to do to fix it. Please help
https://photos.app.goo.gl/1Ti218a5xZ1Zmq659 here is a link to a video of it trying to start couldn't post for some reason.
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Hey welcome

I actually had a 2007 raptor 350 that had a lot of problems too. Not starting could be as simple as the battery not being charger of the spark plug needing replacing. id check both of those. Next, the carburetor should not drip gas. With the float bowl is getting way to full and leaking, you something loose somewhere along the line, or the jets aren't working properly/wrong size. I can't say which and don't know how you could fix it without taking it out, checking it, and putting it back in

 

Can you return the new carb? if not, you have an excellent opportunity to learn about carbs since the old one is not needed.
If it's broke already, what do you have to lose?
Carbs aren't nearly as complicated as they are intimidating...but there's not that much to taking one apart and cleaning it.
First rule of thumb... if it was running but isn't now, don't go re-adjusting everything. Leave the settings alone.
Second Rule...It never hurts to take a picture (or several) before tearing into it for reference. Also, everything is relatively delicate, so don't get ham-handed.

Dump the gas and with it upside down, take the 4 screws out and remove the bottom bowl. You'll see a float that pivots up and down with a small valve hanging in the middle.
The floats open and close the valve to keep the fuel level constant, so if they're stuck open, the carb will flood.
Pull out the pin the float pivots on and remove the float keeping an eye on the valve that it doesn't fall off in the dirt. Don't force anything (you shouldn't have to). Check the end of the valve and the seat it came out of for wear or dirt and blow the line out with compressed air. If there is spooge everywhere, go ahead and unscrew the jets and clean them too since dirty jets cause most of the problems. A single strand cut off a wire brush is great for cleaning the tiny orifices of the jets, but again, be gentle. You're removing spooge here...not the brass.
Gently (GENTLY) seat the air and idle screws noting how many turns the went in so you can re-assemble them to the same position later. Go slowly and be prepared for springs and or washers to be involved.
There are solvents you can use on carbs but DON'T soak anything with rubber on it or it may be ruined.
Once the body is stripped, clean everything and reassemble in reverse order. Seat the air/idle screws and back them out the same number of turns that you counted earlier.

I've bought many bikes over the years and most didn't run. 95% if them just needed the carb cleaned.

 

Also check for spark. Remove the plug and ground it to the engine, turn the motor over with the starter and watch for a blue spark.