Usually, the regular oils do not have the friction modifiers added. If you read the back of the Valveoline Racing oils, blends and synthetics, you will see that the friction modifiers have been added. I am changing to regular Valveoline 20-50 on the next change since my warranty is now out. I have run this in my KX for some time now and in 2 previous RMs and not had any clutch problems.

 

One of the things that makes synthetic oil so good is that it draws itself to heat. This is also what makes it bad for wet clutch systems (like the Raptor). It goes straight to the clutch(which gets very hot) and can make it slip. If you ride easy enough and don't use the clutch a lot you may be OK.

 

"Draws itself to heat" That's the first time I ever heard that phrase.

Has ANYONE ever actually had a clutch slip that they are positive was from using synthetic oil???

 

See if they have a label saying "Energy Conserving". I think that is the same thing as friction modifiers. A few weeks ago when I went to change the oil in my banshee I went through 4 different types of iol and they all had "energy Conserving" ratings. I forget but I think it was Valvoline, Quaker Sate, Havoline and Mobil 1 that I looked at.

 

Talk to the guys at Thumper Racing. They'll tell you all about synthetic oil and slipping clutches.

 

Excellent post.... This is something I have done a lot of research on myself.

It amazes me to no end the mis-information, myths, and just plain false information people are handing out about oils in this forum...

BTW, I run Mobil1 15w50 (car) with no troubles what so ever on any of the machines I've ever owned.

 

Yeah, and talk to the guys at Web cam and they'll tell you synthetics will make your cam go flat... ALL MYTHS.

Rely on personal experience, not myths perpetuated by others.

You want to see some data by someone with REAL testing and data in motorcycles? Goto http://www.eric-gorr.com/techarticle..._june_1999.htm

BTW, synthetic contains no black magic that draws it to heat. It does, however, have a higher film strength than standard oils, and typically higher flash point, which makes it an excellent choice for hot running, high RPM engines.

Even if it could draw itself to heat, why would that be bad for a clutch? Wet clutches are designed to be, well.... Wet.

The bottom line is, friction modifiers MAY cause slippage, but more than likely not. If this concerns you, stay away from "Energy Conserving II" oils. If you ride a 4 stroke, you should be staying away from these anyway because they are typically the lighter weight oils like 5w30. You won't find energy conserving oils in the heavier grades for obvious reasons.

There are numerous tests all over the web and also in motorcycle publications that show that motorcycle specific oils are not nearly as special as they claim when it comes to oil performance in motorcycles & clutches.

 

86atc250r, Well said!!!