Yes, the idle speed stop should be set with engine warm, when cold the increased drag of cold oil slows idle speed, some car chokes increased idle speed to compensate, but on a bike, if the machine idles too slow and stalls when cold, so be it. Far more important to have it set for a warm engine, which is presumably how it will be used most and, like I wrote before, if this is too high you will be dragging the centrifugal clutch, which will start to slip all the time if you glaze it by slipping at idle.

 

So, first I tried the wd40 trick after I got the engine warmed up and it made no difference. Then I adjusted the idle screw and the rpms went down in neutral, so I shut it off and started it again and the rpms went right back up to being way to high even after adjusting the idle screw. Where do I go from here? I am very stumped right now.

 

Do you have the airbox and filter installed?

 

Yes the airbox and filter was on

 

Which "idle screw"? Stop screw simply sets how far down the throttle slide goes, exactly as if you were holding the throttle open that far with the handlebar lever. The idle mixture screw is different and needs careful setting once you get the stop screw set, unless, like me, you avoid altering the mixture screw when working on a carb. Honda tells you not to fiddle with it in all their manuals, good advice.

 

I was messing with the idle stop screw, not the other one. I just realized something though, where the throttle cable goes into the carb and there is that nut that you screw onto the part sticking off of the carb I didn't adjust that to account for the idle screw so it wasnt able to rest on the idle screw, I will mess with that and see what I can do this afternoon.

 

Ok I adjusted the throttle cable and tried everything possible with that and it made no difference, it would either barely run or the rpms shot up, there was no in between normal idle speed, and when I shut it off and restarted it the rpms went right back up.

 

Do yall have any other ideas? Would some pictures help? I really have no clue where to go from here

 

If you are sure the cable isn't sticking, personally I would go for the $25 Chinese replacement carb. This is not a panacea, as they sometimes have the wrong jets, and often need things like idle mixture setting up. If lucky though, they can be "plug and play" so would end your problems. It is possible you didn't get that first rebuild right and, if you put say an emulsion tube upside down first time, you would tend to put it back the same way next time you had the carb in pieces. Contoversial bit here, I never fit rebuild kits, as you need to take lots of parts off you would never need to if just blowing the carb out with compressed air to clean it. So the chances of getting the rebuild wrong are increased and, although Shindy, Bronco, etc, are good names in kits, could they get a part wrong? With the original parts, they worked right before dirt/water got in, so should work right again once you get dirt/water out.

 

So I finally got the cheap carb, and swapped it. It wasn't running well and bogged down when i gave it gas so I concluded it had the wrong jets like those are notorious for. so I took the jets from the rebuild kit i put on it and swapped the jets on it. It ran great, i took it for a rip down the road and when I got back (like 3 minute drive) it wouldn't idle. It idles very very low and no matter how much I fiddle with the idle set screw it doesn't change the idle speed. It dies like every 20 seconds of idle its so low. What am I doing wrong now?? I checked the gas flow and it was flowin just fine, so its not an issue of the gas not getting to it, at least I think. So whats up now?