Hello- My name is Bryan...This is my first post here...but i will be very active from here on out.

Questions: What are some good mods to get the most out of my 99 Banshee (or soon to be...im still in the process of getting it)...But if you could list some of the BEST parts...i would appreciate it thanks...

============================
Bryan Maynard
Soon to own a 99 Banshee (Stock)
ztevin@home.com
aim: ztevin

 

BlackIce, Welcome to the forums. There are a lot of helpful people on here that I'm sure would be glad to help you out. To get you started one of the things that you may want to do is use the search feature to look for relevent posts that were already discussed. Also, if you could provide more details about the type of riding you plan to do and the level of your mechanical ability it would help others to suggest mods that would suit you better.

 

thanks for the warm welcome man.

I plan on doing some trail riding, some aggresive riding(jumping, and what not), and i plan on racing dirt track...

My mechanical level is decent...i mean i know some stuff, and i can use a wrench =] But i wish i could find out more about what some of the parts do...anyway, i hope this leads to some more answers...thanks a lot

 

Well, first and foremost do something about the crappy air filter set-up. You have 2 choices; either buy a Pro-Flow aluminum airfilter adapter and K&N filter or you can use small bolts to hold the stock plastic cage firmly in place and use the stock very restrictive filter, uni-filter foam or K&N gauze filter. K&N filters breath very well but personally I don't know if they are as good as foam in dusty conditions. The stock air filter mount is no good because if you put the lid on wrong and not get the filter seated properly it can let dirt in.

Second thing would be to get some reeds like Boyesen or similar to help with the bottom end throttle response. Filter and reeds are cheap and will help no matter how you set up you're Banshee after that.

Now for more expensive options. Pipes. The single best power increase you can get. Choose something like Toomeys/FMF/DMC or others for top-end or a 2 into 1 type pipe for low end gains. Do a search on here that one. Really, that's the big things. You can eliminate the TORS system before it starts causing problems. Look in the Tech Tips section of this site and do a search for TORS for instructions on how to bypass them. If you are'nt going to hit high speeds like in woods riding you may want to put a 13 tooth front sprocket on to help with the low end/low speed response.

After these things you can look into a cool head or a milled head for higher compression, porting, long rod kits, 400 CC kits, and so on and so on.

Good luck with your Banshee. Also, make sure to not run it lean and mix good quality 2 stroke at oil around 32:1 for longetivity.

 

Good luck with your Banshee. Also, make sure to not run it lean and mix good quality 2 stroke at oil around 32:1 for longetivity.


Later,


WyoRider- Thanks a lot for all that good help...This is a great forum. Could you please ellaborate on the mixture of oil and gas though. That is one thing i was worried about is gettin the right mixture...please explain that, and where i can buy the oil and stuff. What is running it lean mean? and what if it is rich. stuff like that, i would appreciate it....thanks a lot

 

Well, the ratio of 32:1 means 32 parts of gasoline to 1 part of oil. A gallon of gas has 128 ounces so it would need 4 ounces of 2-stroke oil per gallon; 128/32 = 4. See. Go to your local Yamaha dealer for the oil.

As far as running it lean, that has to do with the air/fuel mixture. Running lean will overheat your engine initially and ruin it shortly thereafter. If you buy used you should pull BOTH spark plugs and make sure they are not white colored, burnt or blistered around the insulator near the tip of the plug. That would indicate a lean condition. If it's light brown that's good, if they are black it is rich. Rich won't hurt anything but you won't get max power. Also, if you are buying used it would be a good idea to do a compression test on the machine, at sea level it should be around 120 PSI. I THINK under 100 PSI means it's time for a rebuild.

 

Wyo's right!

The first thing to do is get rid of the ridiculous stock air filter setup. You can wether get a ProFlow (if you're a foam filter fan) or get a K&N (that's 1/3 of the price of the ProFlow). I have a K&N with outerwear, that I slightly modified to be like a ProFlow. It works great. No more dirt in the carbs.

Before reeds, you might want to consider pipes...they cost a whole bunch of $$$, but sure are worth it. There are different setups (low end -motofast, Paul Turner, FMF Gnarly...- and mid-top end -FMF SST, Toomey T5-). Some pipes do it all (adjustable LRD), and some other I don't know where they are really good at (DMC, Pro Circuit, Trinity, CT, Bill's, DG...). One thing I can tell you is NOT to get Graydon pipes. I have them and they kept breaking until I had to reinforce the silencer. For 500$, that's what I call cheap. The pipes came with the quad, I didn't buy these POS.

For reeds, do not get RAD, they rob power (www.mobiledyno.com). VForce work nice.

If you do get pipes and an airfilter, a degree key from Vito will help you get 1 or 2 hp from mid to top. (for 25$, that's a nice deal).

I wouldn't recommend getting a CoolHead...well...I wouldn't buy one. My shee overheated ONCE (after a 2+ mile flat out straightaway followed by a steep hill where I got stuck -the wheels spinned free for 1 second, that was enough for some overflow-), and if you wanna bump up your compression, milling your head .045" makes a gain throughout (sp?) the whole powerband. The only useful stuff is the ability to change domes...other than that...nothing useful to me.

Oh yeah, one VERY NICE thing is to get a modified shift star. You can wether get yours grinded (go to www.macdizzy.com to find more precise info about this) or buy one from different shops, Trinity calls it "Easy shift"). Shifting is really painful on a stock shee (if I had the "courage" to once more take apart the right side of the engine, I'd do it right away).

For the engine, it's impossible to tell you about all the hopups possible, they're unlimited. I must say that I personally love the Hyper Tech turbo EFI banshee. but for 6 grand...ouch!

The chassis itself is pretty good as is. If you have a grand laying down, you can get aftermarket shocks, much tougher and efficient than the stocker (they still allow LOTS of fun...and I can go through hard moguls or jump 40 feet tabletops with'em).

The underbelly protection is very tough (especially the rear sprocket/disc, there's no need to replace it). The engine is a little exposed, but that hasn't been a problem to me yet (whereas the rear skid did hit more than once).

One good thing you can do is get rid of the parking brake. I had it, it ruined a set of new pads within 2 riding months. Now I took it off, and put a MSR cultch lever/perch. It makes shifting really smoother. I love it. With the adjuster "on-the-fly", it's real great. (maybe the only purchase I'm really happy with!).

I added to mine a Motion Pro twist...but I don't like it. It's not as precise as a dirtbike...and having known how this thing was, I'd have kept the painful thumb.

For the oil/fuel mix ratio, I think it depends on the oil you use. I use Ipone Racing at 50/1. I first used it at 32/1, but I quickly saw that there was way too much oil. So I stuck with 50/1. Runs great. I think that you simply should look what the recomandations on the oil bottle are.

If you want, you can also upgrade to better tyres (the stockers don't grip). Razrs seems to be the right choice since they do wear as fast as Holeshots...


Everything should be here, and the only mod you shouldn't go through is the air filter.

...and welcome to the board!