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Has anyone changed their Raptor jets without removing the carbs?

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Old May 31, 2001 | 10:55 PM
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leel2's Avatar
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[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]I'm getting ready to jet my Raptor, and it looks like it might be possible (if I try hard) to remove the bowls and then the main jet without removing the carbs or anything else. Has anyone tried this? The dealer I bought mine from was in another state, and he marked on the bottom of the seat that he put in 130 mains. I need to at least check the mains real soon to see if that is really what's in there (waaayyy too lean, even for 8000 feet here in Colorado).

Thanks,
Lorrin
 
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Old Jun 1, 2001 | 12:52 AM
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[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

Hi Lorrin,

There was a posting from someone a few weeks ago about removing the head pipes and the starter to get at the carbs. He claimed that it was much faster than going in from the top. I haven't tried it myself, but I'm getting real tired of pulling the gas tank every time and dealing with those !@#$%!@ boots. I'm getting faster though!![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
 
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Old Jun 1, 2001 | 11:12 AM
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Hey Roadkill. Do your carbs pop out of your boots often? Have you done anything that seems to help?
 
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Old Jun 1, 2001 | 12:36 PM
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660r
My carbs have never blown off
these are my settings good for sea level to 3000 ft
cut flaps and mod the inside of air box no holes on lid
air screw 2 1/2 turns out on both
27.5 pilots both
160 main right side
155 main left side sitting on bike
fmf power bomb header
white bro's r4 slip on
thing hauls A**
HOPE THIS HELPS
 
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Old Jun 1, 2001 | 12:39 PM
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Why would you take you tank off to pope the carbs back into the boots?? I did mine last weekend in the sand pit with just an m3 allen wrench. While the clamp was still tight I rotated it so it was accessible then just loosened the bolts and popped the carns back in.

mac
 
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Old Jun 1, 2001 | 01:03 PM
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RedRocker...thanks for the reply.
I have almost the same set-up, except I have a pro-flo kit and I am using the stock muffler w/o the baffle (to keep noise reasonable) at the end of the p-bomb. Since I am using the stock muffler, I assume this is why my mains are smaller (145/150). Valves are adjusted perfect! I have been from a-z adjusting the idle circuit...and farther in seems to be richer...no popping thru the exhaust. Good to hear you don't have any carb. problems, I would'nt wish this on anyone.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2001 | 01:35 PM
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Just checking out the new format and what kind of goofy face I am goinh to get!
 
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Old Jun 3, 2001 | 12:50 PM
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let me tell you all the quickest way and the easiest is to remove the air box the throttle cable &choke cable from carb also fuel line& boot clamps and pull out thru air box area that simple!!!
 
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Old Jun 3, 2001 | 11:58 PM
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OK I'm the original poster, and I bit the bullet today and changed jets without doing anything except pulling the header pipe and the starter. The header came off with three bolts, and the starter with two. This allowed me to remove the carb bowls easily because nothing is now below the carbs. Great!, except I found out that the dealer (in another state) had put 130 main jets in both carbs! I don't think there is a place in the U.S. that this would be correct for. I think the dealers here in Colorado (7000) feet have been putting a 140 main in the left carb. and a 142.5 main in the right carb. Time to call the dealer and get new jets.

Thanks for the advice,
Lorrin
 
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Old Jun 4, 2001 | 07:29 AM
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The Jets *MUST* be 2 sizes apart not one.

Chris
 
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