Think twice before trying this - there may be a downside. After performing the flip about a month ago, I now constantly hit the frame skidplate on the ground (THUD landings are not cool) and the shock linkage suffers from metal to metal contact.

Although this modification does lower the rear of the seat 2" which is good for handling turns, it also puts the frame 1.75" closer to the ground measured just in front of the swingarm bolt (prior to the modification, my frame was 10.5" from the ground and after it was 8.75&quot. Given that you have the same amount of shock travel (assuming at this point the metal to metal contact doesn't limit swingarm travel), the frame gets even closer to the ground as the shock absorbs the landing from a jump (remember that the swingarm doesn't move up in relation to the ground, it merely pivots as the frame and seat move downward). In fact, I think it is possible for the frame and the swingarm to form a "V" meaning that the frame actually moves down far enough to go past a parallel plane with the swingarm. This puts the frame much closer to the ground - maybe within a couple of inches. I am now wondering if you removed the rear shock from the quad and let it sit without any support, would the frame touch the ground or is there something in place to limit how far the swingarm will travel in relation to the frame? Maybe the only limit is the bottoming of the shock.

Unfortunately, I didn't have time to take more measurements or study this more. Any engineers out there want to think about this and comment? The other point to think about is that the angle of the shock in relation to the swingarm changes slightly which has an impact on the leverage (how much downward pressure that is required on the swingarm to compress the shock). I am fairly sure that the lower shock bolt actually moves slightly forward in comparison to the swingarm thus creating the effect of a slightly longer swingarm. Given an equal force at the end of the swingarm, the shock will be even easier to compress.

All of this might not be a problem if you have aftermarket shocks, longer swingarm, or are lighter in weight than my 190 lbs. Again, this is something you might want to think about again if you are into serious jumping.

 

I ask: WHY even mess with what the factory engineered to work a certain way anyway? Are the rest of us somehow smarter than they are? If it actually worked better in the flipped mode, don't you think they would have done it to start with? It's too easy to have problems as is, without going out and looking for them. Just leave it stock, and go with quality shocks instead! To me, this is an absolute no-brainer issue.

 

I must say I agree with Scottd.

I rather adjust my riding style, than flip something that is in such a critical place.

Something like modding your air box makes sense, cause it is proven to add horsepower. But flipping your linkage that is at such an high pressure point is risky and a reason to void your warranty.

By the way I am an Engineering Specialist, but I am sorry I do not know much about the mechnical part of the field. Most of my experience is with
Architectural design.

Just had to add my two cents.

 

Just got done flipping mine back to stock. After talking to Martin at Elka Suspension I found out that you lose a little travel by flipping that linkage and it changes to angle of the shock. This will cause it to wear out quicker and not respond the way it was intended.

 

I just flipped mine after riding it for 6 months stock. I like it better for powersliding. But I have an axel on order. Once that goes in, I will probably flip it back. I loved the suspension action when it was stock, but the rear is so high, the tires grab so much, and always highside.

I may change the tires, but I love the traction. I have tried many brands, but the stock tires, have incredible traction. They are the best 'snow' tire I have seen. Even better that Maxis SurTracks. But in the summer and the dry ground, they bite too much. Maybe I will save them for winter.....

RM