Just as a side note, I ran 2 oil changes using the Mobil 1 synthetic dirtbike oil in my Raptor. Started slipping as soon as I put it in and quit when I went back to using the Yamalube. Like someone else said, use what you feel most comfortable with. Heck, for 3 years I ran Castrol 10w-30 automotive oil in my LT250R before I sold it and it ran like a champ!

 

smoked the clutch in my ds and 450ex the same day I installed mobil one syn ....DONT DO IT ......

 

Mobile payed Cesna pilots a bunch of money to rebuild engines when Mobile 1 ate up valve guides or bearings or something. Can't remember exactly, but worth looking into.

 

I use the Yamaha 20/40 with no problems.

 

I would preffer not to run a 20/50 or 20/40 because i live in NY state. It was almost 80 the other day..it may be in the 20s this weekend. thicker oil isnt a great idean here except in the summer months

 

I've got three quads running the mobil 15W50 synthetic, (I think I mispelled that). The 88 Warrior still has the original clutch and ran for the first 12 years on automotive 10W30. For the last 18 months, it's been on the Mobil with no problems. I also have a 2000 Honda Recon that has been on the stnthetic oil since the first oil change at 50 miles. The third is a Suzuki 160 which also has an auto clutch and has also been on it for 18 months. Time will tell, as 18 months may not be long enough to reach a definitive answer if there is one.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

I've read alot of threads in this and other forums (cars, trucks, bikes) about "what oil should I use" and "synthetic vs petroleum oil". It never fails that you can pick any given brand / weight and you'll find someone who swears by it and someone else who used it once and will never use it again. Use the correct weight oil for your outside air and operating temperatures, change it as often as your duty cycle requires and maintain the other aspects of your machine. I read recently that 60% - 80% of engine failures are associated not with the type of lubrication oil but with cooling and temperature related problems; crud in the cooling system, mud blocked cooling fins and the like. A high perectage of the remainder is associated with the owner not changing the oil often enough.

People seem to think there's a magic oil out there that will make their machine last almost forever. There is....clean oil of the proper weight! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] It's the cheapest insurance you can buy.

 

The Raptor manual tells us not to use ANY oil with friction inhibitors (energy conserving). Reason: Wet clutch slippage/burnout, as noted above. The Yamaha clutch engineers know it, heavy duty users (like raptor720) know it, and if you choose to read your manual, you know it too.

Question: Do good quality motorcycle oils leave out the friction inhibitors? Which ones?

 

I know that theHondaline HP4 semi synthetic just recently became available either with or without the Moly additive. Previously it was with Moly only. I have used both Mobil1 15w50 automotive oil and 10w40 Mobil MX4T (bike oil) and found that the MX4T looked cleaner after afew thousand miles but no slippage in either case

 

I mix my own using a quart as a measurement: 75% 10w-40 BP/Amoco -25% 15w-50 Mobil one Synthetic. I get the best of all the oils. I have been doing this in my Honda's quads(over 350 hours on each) since they went out of warranty with no clutch slippage. I do change the oil often. I will be adding this mix to the Raptor when its warranty goes out. 10w40 oils and Mobil 15w-50 synthetic does not contain friction modifiers. Chetread this