I have a 97 Banshee ,the first thing I did was went with the turf tamers,then smaller sprocket,then smaller..heh... Well then it was time for a top end..thats when i did all this...1.Sent the top end to Trinity and they did it up..(sorry to the non Trinity likers..2.sent my head to a friend and he shaved 50th. off..(now i have 155 comp..)
3.purchased carbon tech reeds for stock cages...(huge improvement...
3.purchased the spacers for the carbs to intake...
4.and finally ended up getting a 12 tooth sprocket..
And well i now have so much low end its hard to keep it on the ground,or stop from spinnin...I just got back from Pismo Beach,Ca. and it does pretty well easily wheelie through 4th..
All I can say LOTSA FUN!! and way worth the money...I am also going to look into the 2 into 1 pipe..but also the Paul Turners...(I have FMF's now...

GOOD LUCK!!!

 

I have a '97 Banshee and mine like all Banshees had little low-end from the factory.
Instead of the Motofast 2-into-1 setup I went with the nickle Dynoport pipe, K&N filter with airbox mods, removed the TORS with Boyesen DS reeds, reversed the rear rims and mounted 22" Holeshot XCT to give better ground clearnce in the woods. Just finished rejetting yesterday and low end power is indeed much improved, as is mid and top, but more so in the low to mid areas. The thing just flat hauls butt! 2-into-1 pipes do have a "distinct" sound to them but i love it! Working on Works shocks all the way around now....and *was* checking into a AMPLINK but some posters here don't like those for the $$$ you spend. Only other thing I may do later is run a ProDesign Cool Head for much better cooling when running it hard. It likes to boil if running for extended periods of racing at full throttle, will would get worse if you shave the stock head.

 

I have a question for you all....
First a comment....I think this post is a good example of what the forum was designed for.... Not much bashing...and a few opinions and ideas about the sport...with that said...

I am not new to atv's.....But this problem has got me pretty bewildered...I own a '96 banshee....It's not over worked...but it has some extras...FMF woods pipes...20 over on the cylinders....boost bottle...boyeson reeds...thats as far as the motor goes.....I'm not new to carbs either...But this time I am confused as it gets.....

I don't know what other people are running for winter jetting ( I guess every machine is different)...and I'm talking about upstate NY winters...It's a might cold here right now. But here is the problem....The floats are not stuck and the carbs are clean.
I can start the wheeler...IT idles fine..It has the power and runs great.... But after about 4 minutes of this (regardless of riding or idling) The engine just cuts off and dies.
Now normally I would associate this with a fault in the tors system...But that has long since been removed.... I have replaced the stator with a Ricky stator upgraded settup.... I have checked the spark...the carbs are in synch....It has compression...I can't find any air leaks.

Does anyone have any pointers...And Please don't tell me to sell it and get a Honda...It's a great machine....(I'm sure everyone is going to recommend jetting.....But nothing has changed...I'm just ????)

Thanks in advance......(Oh by the way...the petcock is clean flowing w/fresh gas)

~Jim '96 Banshee

 

When you say cold, what exactly are you saying? 30 degrees? 20 degrees? What is the temp?

A (grasping at straws) possiblity is if it is REALLY cold, maybe your carbs are icing up. I don't know if this is possible, but I suppose that it COULD happen. Why? I know that there is a pressure drop when air travels through the carb, and that water condenses out of air easier at lower pressures. It sort of makes sense that ice could be forming. If the air temp is at or below freezing, and the dew point is just below the air temp, then I could see that ice could form.

I think that snowmobiles have some sort of carb heater to eliminate this problem. I'm not sure if there is much you could do (if this is actually the problem).

Of course this could all be worthless info if your problem happens at air temps over 40 degrees.

 

I wanted to comment on the flat spot also. My banshee is just a few days old and I have noticed that it is sometimes difficult to start off even when the engine is warm. It is a Y2K model and I really have no other complaints. I live in South Texas so I know it is not an altitude or temp. problem. It was eighty degrees today! It just will stall out on takeoff. I think it is strange and I wonder if the mixture screw on my unit is also set wrong from the factory? Is this something that is happening with a lot of other Y2K units or is it just the norm for this machine? I really enjoy this forum and think it provides a wealth of information that benefits everyone.

------------------

 

Your right...I failed to mention the temp....
Well I won't be riding today anyway....It is around 8 degrees outside right now..

It was around 25 when this was happening. It could be water or condensation I guess...I'll look into that...but I have never had that problem before...I have bought a new air filter and skin..so maybe it was just filthy....It does not make much sense for me to freeze my self into an ice cube out on the trails tonight....but we shall see..
thanks for the advice.
~Jim

 

Thanks for all the great feedback and advice ...

Just got back from a trip to NY so I'm catching up on the posts.

I was able to try a few different things, verified the air screws were 1.5 turns out, made sure the carbs were in sync, and I removed the air box lid. The needle is in stock position. Compression in the cylinders are good. I took it for a spin and got the same results, with maybe a slight, slight, slight improvement with the bog. I did confirm a problem at the top end though, when cranking through 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gears at open throttle, the top of 3rd and 4th, sputtered, and slightly backfired a little. I never had a problem with the top end before, always pulled hard through the powerband. I put the air box lid back on.

Anyway, I did notice a situation where the bog doesn't occur. When I first start the bike for a ride, I only have to pull the choke out half way I never have to pull it all the way out (harder to start full choke). I let it idle for a minute or two, warm it up just enough to close the choke without it stalling, and at that point 9 times out of 10 no bogging when I first start off.

What I think is happening since the choke is restricting the air flow to make the air/fuel mixture much richer to aid in starting a cold engine. When I close the choke and then take off, the carb must have a nice rich mixture of fuel still in it and at that moment the rich mixture prevents the bog.

If that is truly the case, what would point to the pilot jets or the needle position? Before I go rejetting the bike with the stock pipes, I'm going to hold off till I get the motofast 2 into 1 pipe. Then I'm going to fix this damn problem once and for all.

Bruce,
Please let us all know how the motofast 2 into 1 pipe goes, and what jetting you end up with.

Kevin,
I have the Holeshot XCT's 22" in the real and the ground clearance is great, I ride trails and woods and hardly ever hit the sprocket or rotor on anything. I still have the stock skid plate and I'm considering the .250 thick armadillo skid plate.

Thanks,

Rob.

 

the Moto-fast pipe requires stock jetting, yes I repeat stock jetting 200 mains 25 pilots, clip in the middle position. If extreamly cold like now on the east coast 210 mains

 

I have a couple of questions for anyone who might know the answer. First, can I use Itasca synthetic mix oil in my engine? I used it in marine applications for a few years with no problems. I am currently using stuff called Maxima. I believe it is castor bean oil. Second question, how much will adding 22 inch rear tires change my overall gearing? Ground clearance needs to be improved a little because of rocks and logs. Will it make a big difference? Thanks in advance for anyone who can help me.

 

Wanted to wake up this thread, and hear more about Banshee bottom end mods.