Just what we have all been waiting for: the Feb issue of dirtwheels is sheduled to test pipes on the raptor. should be interesting to see how those adds we see hold up and if we are getting our money's worth

 

V,

I have tested many of the pipes. They stink for the most part. IF they are testing on a stock machine, believe that all their tests are BS if they dont rate the stock head pipe and GYTR tip at the top of the heap.

Most if not all the aftermarket guys make the head pipes too big in diameter and kill the airspeed/torque just to get 1-2 more peak hp. I even question the need for a full pipe on anything less than a full mod 686 or 720 motor -- especially with the stock CV carbs.

 

Hey 720,
What do you think about the full race yoshi system. I am going to get a bigbore 720 kit in the future. I have about 12k in it and only ridden it 2 times it is still apart waiting for parts. I am covered in suspension and everything else but how do you think or have you seen this pipe perform? And how does it compare?

 

raptro 720 know anything about the hmf pipes i just bought full system for my grizz 660. are you saying then im just better off with the slip on . asap thanks

 

raptor720,

I see from your posts that you think a headpipe is a waste of money and all you need is a good tip, dynojet and opening up the air box ( I believe you suggested cutting the back 1/3 off of the air box lid). You also are very high on Trinity racing I believe...correct?

I was interested in your opinion of the Trinity full system for which they are claiming 50 hp. How come Trinity doesn't offer a slip-on if it would be as good as a full system for a lot less money?

Which slip-ons/full systems have you tested? Does it matter which slip-on you get or will any slip-on work with the proper jetting and air box mods? If any slip-on will do then the HMF would seem to be a good choice (quite a bit cheaper than the gytr tip or e-series up here in Canada).

Thanks in advance,[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

Kerry

 

This is a response to ALLJUICE, GARYHART, and KLJ>>

Alljuice, I just got access to the Yoshi system and I will be testing it on various engine configurations this xmas. I have used the Yoshi stuff on my old race street bikes and though they were great. I will be trying their system on a 720, 686 and stocker. Results will follow. I suspect that in all but the biggest cam 720 it will not produce the torque of the stock headpipe.

Garyhart, I suspect that with your Grizz you are looking for torque from off idle to about 5000 rpm. As such, a full system is exactly NOT what you want. I have performed countless hours of research on the 660 engine in various dress. It is clear that the stock head pipe and a tip (I prefer GYTR) is the best for the low rpm torque. A full system will be off many foot pounds of torque and only have a slight hp gain 1-3 in peak rpm.

KLJ, yes I tend to favor work and products by Trinity Racing; however, I also recommend other builders and products that I believe are good. Comparing the Trinity pipe to HMF or anything else??? There are some people who spend their life savings on their toys. Chrome, paint, custom pieces of every description. They sure look nice and tend to get the cover of the mags. Face it chrome sells. It is difficult for me to tell someone that the ugly stock head pipe out performs the chrome. Many people will go with the chrome regardless -- hence, the "chrome shops" I mention often. Trinity looked at the needs of the engine and decided to make a high quality full dual pipe stainless steel system that worked and looked nice. I have one of their first systems. I also have other systems that I use in different tests. Yes, I will admit that the low end torque is slightly less than a stock headpipe but it is much better than most of the cheap chrome steel pipes. If you are going full dress, it is a nice pipe to use.

On the slip on issue in general --- I have for about one year published numerous articles explaining why the stock head pipe and a good tip are the best for 99% of the applications. I have had many people (including pipe builders) make nasty comments to me about my posts. When I ask them to perform a fair dyno test, they refuse. HMF makes a good quality tip at a reasonable price. Their performance is about what you could expect from the GYTR tip. I actually found a dyno post independent of my work that shows exactly my test results and compares a tip to a full Big Gun (Big Joke) system. Guess what --- Big Gun is no good. Just like 99% of the other full systems. Here is the link to the dyno test -- note the major torque loss in the lower rpm with a full system. http://www.geocities.com/kiwi_craig/raptor_mods.htm

 

I don't agree.

My CT Racing exhaust kit makes a huge difference. Power everywhere. I will say that my friends GYT-R Carbon slip on with the same Pro Design kit, no lid, and proper jetting is a major improvement also over the stock setup.

However, multiple riders who have ridden both these machines all agree that the CT Racing Raptor (mine), has more power, better torque and rideability than the GYT-R machine.

Is it worth the extra $100? It would be the choice to make.

But, the exhausts do make a difference. And I think the GYT-R Carbon slip on does perform very well. But you must use the Pro Design filter setup, no lid, and jet it properly.

RM

 

Here we go with that CT pipe again! Ug


Look at his dyno graph on his web site. He is working against a bone stock stuffed up Raptor with 32 peak hp in dyno pull #1. Then, there is a number of missing dyno runs -- 24 to be exact -- before you see his 48 hp pull with 500 more rpm of over rev. What happened in those 24 runs??? Air box lid off, more fuel, timing, piston?? N2O???

Why didn't CT accurately compare his system to the GYTR or some other tip only system?? Was this a staged event to display some "spectacular" numbers that are rare at best?? Go to the dyno pull I posted earlier in this thread. There you will see a GYTR running against a Big Gun full exhaust. The GYTR tip produces more torque where needed than any full system currently on the market. Only when you add a large cam and piston could you see any possible benefit from a large full exhaust and even then you may suffer from low exhaust velocities.

I believe that the thread I posted is more accurate in every respect. Enjoy your CT pipe I am so happy for you.

 

I am comparing two exhaust systems - GYT-R Carbon Slip On, and the CT Racing Full Exhaust.

I am also saying that both mahines have the Pro Design flange and the Pro Flow Foam Filter. They both are running with no lid, and they both have been jetted properly.

The CT Racing exhaust kit is known in my circle of friends who have rode both machines, to be the better exhaust. (Another 680 Raptor (High Comp piston) with a full pro circuit t4 exhaust, and cam, can't touch it either, it's almost embarassing.)

I agree that Alan's dyno charts are a little unfair as it compares a bone stock california model to his Filter, no lid, jetting, and full exhaust, however, if you are a consumer who wants more from their Raptor, buy his kit. He has included everything in his kit, with instructions, to get close to 50hp from your Raptor. I have found that what he says it is supposed to do, is true. He will be one to tell you that it isn't the exhaust alone, but his kit is matched and documented. I am a very happy and satisfied customer. I don't think his dyno runs were staged, or a one off scenario. And I disagree with your statement "The GYTR tip produces more torque where needed than any full system currently on the market." This has not been my experience.

The debate as to if you were to do a shoot-out with only slip-ons, no filter, jetting, or airbox mods, I would agree that you don't get much more than the stocker. But when allowed to breathe, and proper jetting, the Raptor will take advantage of a better exhaust. Will it make a bigger difference if you do porting, cam & piston work? I can't really say, as I haven't seen or ridden the results.

RM

 

I agree with rennym's last paragraph. You have to tune your machine to the pipe. You cant just change the pipe and nothing else and expect more power. Also a 10% increase in hp. across the rpm band via 3-4hp is a good increase and very noticeable.