Kodiak CV Joint Boot Replacement (Rev. 0)

NOTE
You DO NOT have to remove the tie rod end or upper ball joint from the steering knuckle to replace the CV boots.

1. Block the ATV under the skid plate near the first cross member at front of frame.
2. Remove wheel/tire.
3. Remove CV boot guard.
4. Remove disc brake caliper, and tie it out of the way.
5. Pry off rubber hub cover.
6. Remove wheel hub cotter pin.
7. For leverage when removing axle nut, temporarily install wheel/tire with a couple of lug nuts hand tight.
8. Remove axle nut and washer. I had to heat it with a propane torch and use a breaker bar.

CAUTION
Before you remove the wheel hub clean everything thoroughly so you don't get dirt in your wheel bearings.

9. Remove wheel hub.
10. Remove wheel hub O-ring. This seals the ID of the wheel hub to the axle, and should be located on the axle at the shoulder just inboard of the spines.
11. Remove cotter pin from lower ball joint retaining bolt.

NOTE
The steering knuckle CLAMPS to the lower ball joint stem. It is NOT a press fit, Yamaha had a better idea! The stem also has a circumferential groove machined in it that the through bolt engages. When the bolt is tightened the steering knuckle clamps to the ball joint stem.

12. Remove lower ball joint retaining bolt.
13. Use a soft face hammer and tap lower A arm to disengage ball joint from steering knuckle.
14. Remove shock lower bolt, and lift shock out of the way.
15. Remove CV boot inner clamp. Straighten bent tabs (2) that secure the clamp.
16. Roll boot back and remove circlip located in a groove just inside the CV joint housing.
17. Manipulate the upper A arm and disengage the CV joint member from it's housing.
18. Cover CV joint member with cloth
19. Remove axle stub from steering knuckle.
20. Remove snap ring retaining the CV joint member to axle.
21. NOTE orientation of CV joint member and remove from axle.
22. Remove remaining boot clamp and boot.
NOTE: Assemble in reverse order

Tips
1. Snap rings are punched out of sheet metal. You'll note that one surface has a sharp edge and the other rounded. The sharp edge should face the force being applied. This means the sharp edge of the snap ring retaining the CV joint member to the axle should face inboard.
2. Yamaha CV boot clamps are ONE piece so put the large clamp on BEFORE you install the axle. A good thing is they don't need any clamp pliers.
3. It's easier to make up the boot clamp if the locking tabs are located counterclockwise from the clamp extension.
4. Use new cotter pins.
5. Maintain correct orientation of fasteners.
6. Use Loctite if NyLok nuts have lost their retention feature.
7. Clean out old lube and replace with that supplied.

Torque Values in Ft/Lbs
1. Shock absorber bolt (18)
2. Lower ball joint clamp bolt (35)
3. Axle nut (110) plus whatever it takes to reach the NEXT cotter pin hole. DO NOT LOOSEN NUT TO ALIGN WITH HOLE!
4. Caliper bolts (22)

 

thanks for the info!
I'll let my uncle know (he has two kodiaks)so he doesn't have to go through everything I had to on my Grizzly.