ran fine last night -this morning ,no spark. the headlights dont even flicker when i kick it over.
what do i look for ,and please give as much detail as possible.
tryin' to get to glamis this weekend.
thanks

 

oh yea, its not the "tors" - thats been eliminated

 

My God man are you a millionare? How much jack have you got tied up in Quads?

 

Yeah really, thats amazing.

ANYHOW...

Here's some tips. Check your ignition CDI box(good culprit), check into your stator also.

 

no , not even close, i have 4 kids and a wife ,a small house and an old truck.
the 4-wheeler is just what we do. need to keep the kids close somehow.
so anyway how do you go about checking the stator or cdi??

 

I too have a slew of quads, but only a wife and 2 kids - the rest are for different riding conditions (ie, you don't take the Banshee hog hunting in the river bottom) or for friends that don't have a quad.

You have 4 basic (5 if you count the TORRS) components to the Ignition system, CDI box, pickup coil, charge coil, and ignition coil. The lighting system has its own separate lighting coil and voltage regulator.

The following checks are made at the connections coming from the engine:

Pickup coil - unplug red/white and white/green wire - read resistance across the two - 94-140 ohms is good

Charge coil - unplug green and red wires - read resistance across the two - 13.7-20.5 ohms is good

Ignition coil - .28-.38 ohms primary (without going out in the cold and looking at my 'shee, if there are 2 input wires - read across both wires, if only one input wire - read input wire to coil ground), 4.7K-7.1K ohms secondary (plug wire w/cap(s) removed to coil ground)

CDI - if all other tests are good, CDI is defective.

There is another ignition system component (TORRS), but you have eliminated it.

Lighting Coil - yellow and black wires - read resistance - .28-.38 ohms is good.

ps- you might want to make sure the stop/run switch and the key switch are OK, before you jump out and buy a CDI

 

The first thing that I would check is the kill switch. One of my Buddies had this same problem recently. After hours of chasing wires,And endless phone calls to the Techman. We found that the kill switch was DEAD!
All you need is a jumper wire, Or a test light works great as well.
You can also test your stator with a test light as well. It should produce power when you kick it over. CDI........same scenario.

 

ok--
pickup coil measured- 116.7 ohms.....good

charge coil measured- infinate......im thinking thats not good.

ignition coil(primary)(two wires )measured- .3ohms & 000k ohms....whats up with that?

(secondary)- please explain how to test

lighting coil-.2ohms

do i have a bad ignition coil and a bad charge coil? does the charge coil mean a new stator??
thanks again , this is what makes these forums great!

 

To test the secondary readings on the Ignition Coil, unscrew the plug cap(s) off the HT wire and probe the wire inside with one lead, the other to coil ground - repeat the same for the second wire. Usually the Ignition coil will give signs of "going dead" by starting to cut out after the coil has warmed up. From experience, the ignition coil is probably not bad.

As far as the readings on your charge coil, it does sound bad, and the Yammy dealer only offers as a complete stator unit ($300 from powersportspro.com). You might pull the flywheel and check the wires going to the stator to make sure you don't have a broken one. You might also check with a local independant shop and see if the charge coil is available - I know the pickup coil is available.