Okay I just bought a very very clean 2000 banshee.
It's bone stock and everything looks almost brand new, a have a few questions for you Banshee owners:

What kind of oil and at what ratio? (I'd rather buy expensive oil than two new pistons [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img])

What Octane Gas? (i've been running 93)

What kind of Exh? (Toomey are my first choice)

Any other parts you can suggest would be appricated....
My Banshee will be used for trail ridding, ocassional trips to the dunes, and the ocassional street race at an abandoned highway [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

Any info would help.... thanks in advance

 

Sounds like youve got a good grasp of the first parts. Heres what I would do.

1. Get a pro-design proflow with either a foam filter or a K&N w/outwear. The stock air filter setup is junk. Trust me, its a $90 piece of mind(plus I have seen a dyno run where they added the pro flow and K&N and got almost 5 more horsepower. Dont know, but its worth it just for the motors sake). Also, you might want to see about adding a Pro design MegaImpellor down the road. My stock impellor looked like it was about to break up.

2. For trails, id go down one tooth on the front sprocket, helps with the low end.

3. Toomies are not really a good choice for trail riding, they are mostly a top end pipe. Some FMF SSTs might be a better choice.

4. I run 32:1 Yamalube 2R. Had my banshee since 99 and its still on the stock top-end and running strong. I abuse this machine and it keeps coming back for more.

5. I also shaved my head -.40 thousandths and this made a big difference in power. Probably the best bang for the buck, besides a degree key

HAve fun. If you have other questions, let me know!!!

RoostKing...

 

Hmm... the only thing I can think of that I think the Banshee needs that RoostKing didn't mention is a cool-head. My friend also has a 2000 'Shee and it tends to overheat. I don't like the stock Banshee tires they don't hook up very well, so some 20 inch Razr's or Holeshot XC tires would be good. Have fun and Enjoy, oh yea, welcome to the sport.

 

I actually addressed the advantages of a cool head, but by using a Mega Impellor and shaving the head. My buddies banshee still overheats with a coolhead, yet after I installed the Mega impellor, I have yet to over heat. Get the cool head if you intend to change the domes alot.

RoostKing...

 

Thanks for all the info....
As per the oil I have friends that use Maxima and swear by it, but also I talked to a guy at the Yamaha Dealership and He said Bel-Ray Mc1 or Yamalube 2 at 40:1
But I am very open to suggestions........
Also Does anybody have the FMF SST's.... How well does the finish hold up, do they leak at all, etc......

P.S. No exaclty new to the sport just new to the banshee thing, I've owned PW50, Yamaha Breeze, KX80, Polaris Trail boss 250 and I have been racing jet skis for the last couple of years... Sea-Doo GSI, Pro 785, SLX 1050, and a Pro 1200

 

For oil, I run Golden Spectro @ 50:1. I like it, but I also like Bel-Ray. Whatever you do, look at the back of the bottle and see what it recommends for the ratio, and go by that instead of what a dealer says or your manual says to run it at. DO NOT USE REDLINE, my friend ran it in his Banshee for awhile, it stinks and I just don't like it.

 

im shocked noone said Klotz i love that stuff and it will stay mixed forever and burn's really clean,so clean iv not had to pull my plug in forever

 

As shocking as it may be, Klotz does NOT burn clean. Klotz has made a new premix called R50, which DOES burn clean. SuperTechniplate has castor in it, which will clog up a powervalve. Anything that clogs up a powervalve burns "dirty". I do run Klotz though. Nothing can beat the castor smell. Maxima 927 also has some castor in it, but doesn't burn as dirty. R50 would be a good oil to use though.. My R has ran Maxima/Klotz since 89, and will continue to burn Klotz.

 

My opinions on 2-stroke engine oil:
Ask almost any die hard racer or performance shop and they will say Klotz Benol. This oil is good but only if you tear your engine down every season. Benol has a habit of gumming up ports and crankcases.

DO NOT RUN AMSOIL. This also comes from personal experience. Low hour rebuild on Banshee with forged pistons, broke in on Spectro, then ran less than 5-gallons of amsoil at 50:1 per bottle recommendations. Cracked skirt on one piston and wore rings on other to point of no compression. Called amsoil, they said they could not help with expense of rebuild because that oil should be mixed at 100:1 if it is not raced. That's not what the bottle said. I know a guy that is amsoil sponsored but his engine shop refused to build him another motor if he didn't switch to benol.

Golden spectro is OK but I don't like the smell of it. Same thing with Bel-ray's H1R. H1R does seem to eat rings up faster than other oils.

My favorite has to be Spectro SX. Smells alright, even better with race gas. Mixes really well and easily. One bottle mixed to 4-gallons make 32:1. Doesn't leave deposits on plug or piston. However, tends to smoke slightly worse than other synthetics.

Everyone has an oil that they swear by. My advice is: Find an oil you like and stick with it. As for octane: 93 runs as good as any race gas on a stock engine. Mixture: Whatever is recommended by oil manufacture.

Pipes: I Love my pro circuit pipes (identical to the toomey t-5) they have a very good finish, very wide powerband even on a stock engine. And sound awesome. Hate FMF fatty's. Narrow powerband that comes on way to late. However the FMF seem to make slightly more HP. Definetly go with the pro design filter system that was mentioned earlier. It will save your engine from dirt.

Stock tires are junk. I like holeshots but they wear to easily. I have a set of razr's that I hate. Shredders are cheap and wear good. But all around I like the Fast Trekkers. They have great straightline traction, but yet the rear end can easily be broken loose and can be slid sideways. This helps me fly through tighter woods. The right and left wheels can be changed which will reverse the tread and they are then great for sand.

 

Going back to the coolhead thing, Roostking is correct. I remember when him, me and another guy were riding at Rock Springs. Me (without coolhead or impeller) and the guy with the coolhead both overheated twice at the same time and Roostking never did overheat. We were all riding together in a line at the same pace. If that isn't a good test I don't know what is.

As far as oils is concerned... beats me. I use Yamalube 2R at 32:1 and so far so good. I'm sure there are better oils but this works for me.

As far as pipes, all of the top-end pipes are similar. If I were buying again I would look at the FMF SSTs but I am also very happy with my Toomeys.

If you go with a top-end pipe, consider a degree key (I have one on order) and shaving your head 30 to 40 thous to get your low end back. Actually, do those anyway.

Reeds; I wouldn't bother. Boost bottle; waste of money, doesn't do anything.

Other mods. Well, go to my site, under mods, look at the coolant temp gauge mod I just did. Cost about $10 for all the parts. Also, I just "ported" (cleaned up the rough edges) my reed cages but can't say yet if it made a difference or not since the weather sucks too bad and everything is snow covered.

Everything else has been covered I think. More than anything, read all you can to get an understanding of how to tune the Banshee. All of the mods in the world aren't worth anything if you aren't tuned & jetted correctly.