I dont think the 146/148 or the 148/150 sent with the kit will be enough for the lid off with the Pro Flow and K&N. They didnt have any info or jet recomendations for the lid and snorkle completely removed like they did with the 400ex. Please help!
I am running the X6 SParks pipe.
I can figure it out the hard way but just looking some help so I dont pull the plastic off a hundred times!
Thanks!

 

I'm running 148 & 150 Dynojets with my Sparks X6, Pro Flow & 5~1" holes with Univents at 670 ft elevation & the 02 sensor on the dyno showed I was a little rich. I made a pull without my lid I think the 02 was still around 14:1 which I think is about right. The Dynojet recomendation for my mods were 146 & 148 I went ahead & left it a little rich for now since it only had 15 hrs on it, I'll dyno it again when the heat of the summer gets here & dial it in closer.
Check Out My Web SiteTo see my Raptor & other toys

 

If you read your instructions carefully you will see that 146/148 is the recommended jetting with full pipe and the tabs cut from your snorkle. 148/150 should be perfect with your lid removed, I ran this way for months and the plug always looked perfect. The next step for dynojet jets would be 150/155 as their jets go up in increments of 5 after 150. I am at sea level here in Indiana just for reference.

 

I run 148/150 with your same mods except I have a GYTR Carbon Fiber tip. Runs ever so slightly rich at sea level.

/NotuRaptor

 

Is it worth removing the lid? I may try it but have read so many posts about turbulence in the airbox and a lack of vacuum?? If it is worth it then I may just bump up the jets to 148/150 and see how she rides.

 

xplor, I dynoed my raptor without the lid with the seat on. The HP curve looked like a roller coaster, this was due to turbulance in the air box, all other pulls were with the lid on & the curves were very smooth. I gained 1 HP without the lid but would this 1 HP really be helpful given the erratic curve?

This was just 1 pull just to see what it would do without the lid so take it for what it's worth.

 

When I put the kit in I saw the reccomendation for 146/148 with air box lid on. Since I removed it with the Pro flow kit I figured the 148/150 in the kit would still be way to small for the amount of air that would be coming in with the lid off. I had some dynojets from other 400ex projects so I put in a 160/165. Before the pipe I rode the bike for a comparison to stock and it had more torque down low but no rpms. Now with the pipe yesterday it runs like a rocket but might be a little lazy on top. It hits the rev limiter quick in second and third but fourth and fifth feel a little longer but It does wind out though. It revs real fast and seems to be taking the gas well. So you guys think I am still way rich? If I am rich,It will surely fly when I jet it down. Where would you start? 148/150 or I also have 150/155 jets.
So evidentally,the dynojets are like installing a number that would be 20 lower than stock. 170 mikuni=about a 150 dynojet. Just guessing,what do you think? The comparison sheet I saw online doesnt look right to me.
Thanks for all your help guys,this helps us all in tuning.

 

You are way rich at 160/165, my built motor runs best at 155/160 on the mains at sea level. You should be perfect at 148/150, like I said before I ran with the lid off/Full Pipe(DMC Alien)/Pro-Flow K&N for months and the plug always looked great.

As far as running without the airbox lid, I never dyno'ed with the lid on, but all graph's were perfectly smooth with the lid off. I ran 11 runs and they were all smooth.