Well I have a 2002 Raptor and have just purchased some goddies for it. I have bought a dyno jet kit, Yoashimura slip on, and pro flo andaptor plate with a K&N fliter. I live in Idaho Falls (elv 4710) I usually do not ride above 9000 feet. I am a little nervouse about installing the jet kit. I have rejetted my wifes blaster and a couple of my bikes, but the jet kit has a few extra parts, neddles, springs, and other non-identifyable parts. I was just wondering if someone could please give me any recomendations on the jetting, air screw, needle clip position, or any other information. My second option is to take it to a mechanic and pay them to do it. Is this something that someone who is mechanically inclined could easily install even if they have never installed one befor? My dealer charges 45 an hour and I was wondering if this process should take more then an hour. I really appreciate any info or help you can give. thanks

 

Do it yourself.

Do you have a Yamaha service manual? If not.

Remove the seat.Remove the 2 bolts holding the air filter box. Loosen the clamps from the carb boots to the box. Remove the air filter box. It'll be hard to get out, but it will come out. Once out. Cut half of the **** that stick out. (the parts that were preventing you from taking the box out) This will make for easy removal next time. Otherwise you'll need to loosen the bolts for the rear fender to get it out easily. Next remove the radiator guard. Remove the gas tank cover. Remove the headlight bolts, then remove the front fender. Remove the gas tank. Remove the rubber cover off the carbs. Loosen the carb boots from the head side of the carb. Pull out the carbs, they are attached together. Do a 180 and lay them on top of the frame where the gas tank used to be. Remove the bowls and remove the main jets. replace with what Dyno jet reccomends for your slip on and altitude. Replace bowl covers and screw the fuel screws in all the way then back them out the reccomended amount of turns (dyno jet reccomendation) then reinstall the carbs onto the head side carb boots. Take the vacume covers off the top of the carbs. With needle nose grab hold of the needle clip holder and pull out the needle jet assembly. Be careful not to injure the rubber diaphram. The needle jet holder pulls out from the assembly. Make note of the order of parts on the needles. Replace old parts with the new dyno jet parts. Needles clips springs. Put it back together and reinstall in the carbs. You can do the needles before you do the jets. Its your choice. Then put everything back together and you are now 10 hp stronger.

One Note: Be sure you push the needle holder firmly into place so it doesn't come loose or out of position, before reinstalling vacume covers.

Its a lot easier than it sounds. You can do it.

A little quote from a very good movie (The Edge)

"What one man can do, another can do"

P.S. Somehwere there is a web page detailing the jetting process. Do a search, you might find it. Pictures and everything. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

The jet kit is a piece of cake. I have 2 raptors(1-686 trinity) and have done a couple of my friends Raptors. Just did one of them yesteday. You don't need the springs and other misc. parts. They are in there so if you loose one you'll have on the replace it with. This link will help with the difference from dj to mikuni jets.

http://www.users.qwest.net/~tcamp30/jets.htm

If you are goning to us the dynojet kit, just use the dj155 (right carb)/dj160 (Left carb) jets. Don't bother with the needles.
If it were me, I'd send the dynojet kit back and go to the dealership and get mikuni 150/155 jets. That should put you spot on for jetting.

It should take you about an hour to replace and put your machine back together. You'll need to pull all the plastic off the front and the tank. Then you can get right to the carbs.

SandRaptor

 

Sand Raptor

Your giving him false information. First your telling him to use the larger jet on the 1 valve intake and the smaller jet on the 2 valve intake. Plus your telling him not to use the dyno jet needles. If you mix and match it will not run properly. Second the jet sizes you reccomend are way to rich for his altitude, unless he removes his lid completely then still may be a tad rich. One more note. I ran the mikuni jets at 155/160 for a long time. It ran good. But then I gave in and got the dyno jet kits. Its like night and day.

 

According to the info sheet In my Dynojet kit, with a slip on exaust, trimmed snorkle, between 3000~6000 feet altitude use DJ 142(left)~144(right) mainjets, 3 turns out on air mixture screws & using all stock spacers install DJ needles on 4th groove from top (The DJ needles are a diffrent design as are the jets & should be used together). Install the DJ slide springs (the big springs) they are a diffrent rate than stock. The small springs are spares that are same as stock. sand raptor must have been confused because the largest Dynojets in the stage 2 kit is 150.

I jetted mine to the DJ recomendations & the plugs read lean. I messed with it for 3 days until I found out you can't read plugs using pump gas as the additives wash the plugs clean. I dynoed it with the DJ 148~150 & the O2 sensor showed I was rich. Dynojet recomended DJ146~148 which would have been spot on. I've got the full Sparks X6, Pro Flo adaptor,foam filter, pre filter, trimmed snorkle & 5~1" holes with Uni Vents in air box lid & am at 670 feet elevation.

Read your instructions & follow them & you'll be alright. If you must know for sure what your Air/Fuel ratio is you'll need to dyno it with a O2 sensor attached. It's not expensive, I can get 3 pulls on an ATV dyno for $50.

 

wshrdskin
Sorry I should have stated "LOOKING FROM THE FRONT OF THE BIKE" in my previous post. And as far as to use or not to use the dj needles. If you ever go to a engine builder and ask for jetting help. There going to go off the stock needles. Ask me I know, I have went through Jetting Hell trying to use the dj needles when I put my 686 trinity motor together.
I'm at 4000 ft and run a 180/185 on my machine.

I just did a raptor yesterday, 2002 raptor, whitebros R4 slip on, K&N filter with outerwears skin and 3/4 of the lid cut off. Spent all day at the dunes geting the jetting set dead on. Ended up at a dj 160/165 with 3/4 of the lid cut off.

You stated "One more note. I ran the mikuni jets at 155/160 for a long time. It ran good. But then I gave in and got the dyno jet kits. Its like night and day." You were rich on jetting.

Look at the chart http://www.users.qwest.net/~tcamp30/jets.htm

I did not state mikuni 155/160 I stated dynojet 155/160 which is equal to a mikuni 147/150

The mikuni jets and dynojets are different.
DynoJet jets are marked according to the diameter of the hole in the jet.
Mikuni jets are marked according to the flow rate.

Dynojet jets use a smaller hole with the smaller diameter needle to equal the same flow rate as a mikuni jet with a larger hole and larger diameter mikuni needle.

 

SandRaptor,

Didn't mean to accuse you of anything.

I stated what I was running, not quoting what you said to use. I run mostly below sea level to 1000' winter time. My 155/160 (mikuni) worked well for me. As the temp rises the 155/160 wasn't working well. I eventualy had to go back to the 145/150 that Alba reccomended. I like to run with the lid off. That setup (Alba) won't work with the lid off. Thats when I went to the Dyno jets. 146/148 with no lid it ran great but my plugs were brand new looking after 4-6 hours of riding. Even with the lid on. Ive been at 155/160 (purchased more jets) and it runs great, very strong. I'm now back at 150/155 dynojets with no lid as I am going to be running at altitude. Here in So Cal our riding season is coming to a close. But not for me. I will be riding in the San Bernardino mountains at elevations of 4-6000'+ This setup works well for me. I'm familiar with your jetting hell. I'm also familiar with the website about jets and the differences between the two.

 

Settings (142.5 - 145)

My settings. I am running a CT exhaust and a CT air box/250R K&N filter without lid. Ron Williams at All Season Sports in Rexburg took mine to the dunes to jet it. Runs perfect. Call him at 356-9245 and take your front plastic off before you come. It will be worth what you pay to get it right.

Ron Walker

 

If you purchased yours at Bott's, you might as well head for Rexburg to get it right.

 

My setting with stock needles.
5000ft
K&N filter in stock airbox
Snorkel removed w/ ten 1" holes in lid
Clip in number four spot
150/155 mains, Air Screws 1&5/8 on small jet.. 2.25 out on larger jet side
Stock pilots
Runs PERFECT as it was put on an engine analyzer at my dealer to obtain these settings
In my opinion I don't think you need a dyno jet kit. It make take some guess work out but the stock needles like any other are fully adjustable and you can achieve optimim performance w/o a kit.