Hello to everyone in the forums. I have spent a lot of time reading through all the posts. You guys are great, lots of good information. From what I have read, my questions will probably be somewhat redundant. Anyway, I brought home a new Raptor last Saturday 6/1. What a beautiful machine. I have only ridden around a field we have behind our house. Taking it easy for the break in period (ok, I confess, I did get on it once or twice). This Saturday I'm going to hit the trail, and get a good 6-8 hours in. Anyway, here's my questions:

-Twice when I have first hit the ignition switch, it made one he11 of a loud backfire (like a .223). It's brand new, maybe only an hour on it. All setup for me by the dealer. Is this normal, what could be wrong if it's not?

-I ride mostly on wooded trails and fireroads (4000' elevation). I want to get a pipe, but do not want to sacrifice low end. I would prefer something with even gains across the powerband in both HP and torque. It looks like to do that I should stick with the stock headpipe, and go with a slip on??? I have to keep it below 101db. Which one do you suggest (LRD, yoshi, FMF...)

-Tires....Man, the stockers make it real hard to do a power slide, they grab like he11, and want to tip you over. For my type of riding (mainly woods, rare occasions in rugged desert), are the Razr's good, or should I go with Razr2's? Can I keep stock rims with those, or should I upgrade?

-Suspension. I plan on replacing the rear axle with a +4 X-33. For my type of riding should I get the +2 a-arms, or +2 and +1 forward? I'm willing to put a few k into suspension mods, and don't want to mess with spacers. Also, any suggestions on shocks?

-Full skid plates (chassis, a-arms, swingarm), is the one offered by yamaha 1/4" thick?


Sorry for combining all the questions into such a long post! I'm just trying to line everything up.

One final question. I have done the basics on cars (hardest thing I've ever fixed was a blown headgasket). I can do the work, but don't know where to start. I really hate to take my new reason for living into a dealer. It's not only expensive, but I like the idea of knowing a lot about the machine, and being able to fix it. Should I just order the shop manual. I mean, does it have enough info in it to show me how to adjust valves, etc....???

TIA for everyone's help!

 

Welcome!


<< Twice when I have first hit the ignition switch, it made one he11 of a loud backfire (like a .223). It's brand new, maybe only an hour on it. All setup for me by the dealer. Is this normal, what could be wrong if it's not? >>

Don't worry about it yet.....if it keeps doing it, yes, it is a problem.
I have an E-series slip on. I would recommend this slip on to anyone and it is reasonably quiet at low rpms. More power everywhere! Do some research on the E-series.....it is one of the best performing exhausts available. Why? Because it is made for a 4-stroke engine. Not just a straight thru design.
Since the cash is available, I would recommend a wider rear axle and better front shocks (+3 would be fine). You don't wanna get too wide for woods riding.
I have'nt tried the razors on a Raptor yet, but I am sure they would be an excellent choice.
Before you go riding, get a rear skid.....the stocker is pathetic and leaves your rear disk vulnerable.
Lets see.....what else.....check your filter to make sure your dealer oiled it. You need to go-ahead and get a pro-flo or equivalent....this is a must. A stabilizer slows down those twitchy handlebers at high speed and is less tiring while riding. I have a PEP and would not recommend it. Handguards are a big help in the woods as well.....I have a set of Rally 2's (Acerbis) and they are awesome. Tighten up your battery connections....they loosen up periodically. I would also recommend a Dyno-jet kit. Their needles are tons better than the stockers. Just use what the kit recommends as a baseline though.....then dial it in perfect for your machine! THere is a big power difference between OK jetting and perfect jetting! Break it in easy and have the valves adjusted after the 20hr break in period (I did mine twice during this period). Set your idle up and turn your idle circuit screws out a 1/4 turn. Get your tail off the seat and lean with the machine for better turning.

 

Oh yea, on the skid, I hear the Yamaha skids are about the best (most expensive too). CHeaper stuff is out there.....go ahead and get protection from front too back.

 

BlueRulez,
good thing you bought the Raptor.
I agree what most of the guy gave you the infor.
For the pipe I would go with LRD since I have one and the sound is lot lower then WB E-serie since I used to have one even with the silencer core. Still too loud. With LRD you will be running around 95db. While the WB E-serie is running about 100 plus w/o silencer. With sliencer is about 98 plus.
Of the LRD pipe it give you broad band of HP and ton of torque. They will help you of the jetting if you have any question.

For suspension if the money not really a big issue then I would go with Custom Axis shock around. It give you more plush riding then other brands. money issue? then go with Work Performance which is one step down from Custom Axis.

Remember everybody have different taste of riding style.

Skid plate go with PRM from Oregon and much better then most brand. They have good products and the price is pretty reasonable. I have them in my bike of Raptor and Banshee.

Bill

 

Thanks for the information. Once I get past the 20 hour break in, I will start on the upgrades. I don't want to mess with it too much until then. I am dying to see how it feels when it gets a little wider. And I can't wait to really open it up...especially once it's breathing right.

Ok, my big question on the mechanical side of things. If in the manual it tells me, perform steps x &amp; y, to get z, I can do it. A lot of people adjust valves by sound. I just don't feel confident enough to do that. Also, jetting seems to be the same way. Is it really that tough, and does the service manual give you the steps and measurements needed to adjust the valves? I'm thinking I might have the shop do the valves the first time, if the mechanic will let me stand back and watch.

D@mn thing backfired on me again when I fired it up tonight. I think I have it narrowed down, though. I have a hell of a time finding neutral. Seems that from 1st gear, it always pulls up to second, and I play a game of back and forth until I get it. If I do this while the machine is off, I rock it a little to see if it's in gear (sometimes it's in neutral and the neutral light doesn't come on for a few seconds), anyway, with it off, I bet that rocking it is causing the cylinder (or exhaust manifold) to load up with fuel. The next time I start it, it backfires. I found neutral, before I turned it off tonight, and will keep doing it that way. See if the problem goes away.

3tv, with the A-Arms, was it hard to get the camber set right?

Thanks for everyone's help again, I appreciate it...

 

Get the oem manual. You can order it online at www.motocom.com.... It does tell you about valve adjustment and everything else. The valve adjustment is easy and to be done by a dealer is not required. If your intakes are to tight it could be one reason you are getting the back fire. All my Raptors were too tight on the intakes when I first checked them. I did not have any problems with backfire or boots blowing off though. The exhaust valves were right on. Check all you nuts and bolts, I had some that were not tight from the dealer. Make sure the steering stem nut is tight too it comes loose on some raptors until it is tightened right. Some people use lok-tite on it. If you have done head gaskets on a car you can do about anything on you raptor with the manual. Enjoy the ride.