Well, I am approaching my first 10-hour service on my Raptor, and when I have it in the shop, I would like to have a slip on installed, for a little more power. My question for all you guy's in the know is about the snorkel that the pipe manufactures suggest that you should remove. Is it simply the "clamp on? portion of the front of the air box lid? Do you just simply remove the clamp and slide it off, and you are done, or is there more that needs to be done? If that is it, how much difference does it really make? I really don't want to ride with the lid removed, as I'm not trying to get the absolute most power from my Raptor, I just want to keep a comfortable distance between my Raptor and any fully piped and jetted Z400's out there looking for trouble [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

So to recap, I really don't want to install a full exhaust system, nor do I want to remove the entire air box lid. I'm looking for decent HP/Torque gains, but I don't want to spend allot of money, and I don't want to chop up my air box. I would like to add the best performing slip on, with new jetting if required, and minor air box mods like removal of the snorkel. So any suggestions from you guy's on the best slip on would be greatly appreciated, as well as letting me know if I have removed the snorkel correctly.

Thanks

 

Can anyone help me out? I am mainly interested in learning if I am removing the "Air Box Snorkel" correctly. What I have done is, removed the air box lid, and then loosened the clamp that secures the front part of the snorkel to the air box lid. I then slid the snorkel looking portion that clamps to the air box lid off, just leaving the air box lid. This seams to leave a much bigger opening for the air box to breath through as well as more room in front of the air box opening for the air intake. Is this what the pipe manufactures mean when they recommended that you "Remove the snorkel"? Or do I need to cut out the center divider that is left in the air box lid (which I do not want to do)? I really don?t see how that little divider that is left inside the lid could effect the airflow as it is only about an 1/8 of an inch wide, versus once you remove the clamp on snorkel portion with the blocked off area at the back which would definitely effect airflow into the air box. I haven't decided on a pipe yet, although I am leaning towards the Pro Circuit T-4, as it makes decent HP with a stock air box and rejecting, also, it?s header and mid pipe are the same dimensions as the stock Raptor. But most of them seam to recommend that you remove the air box snorkel and rejet.

Thanks for any info, as I want to install a new pipe and rejet by the end of next week!

 

Removing the snorkle and cutting the flaps out of the snorkle is 2 different things. Yes, cutting the flaps out will mandate that you rejet, as will the removal of the entire snorkle. Both will help in throttle response and add some additional power.

Regarding your slip-on choice, I personally think that anything is better then the stock choke down tube. You are not gonna see much difference from one slip-on to another, you will see more difference between mfg when and if you decide to go with the full system and even then I don't think you can go wrong.

So, to look back. If you want to take off the snorkle, go ahead. If you want to cut the flaps from the snorkle, go ahead. BUT, IF YOUR GOING TO TRY AND USE THE PIPE MFG SUGGESTED JETTING, YOU SHOULD FOLLOW THIER INSTRUCTIONS. Either way, suggested jetting is a starting point, not final dial in. You will still want to do a full throttle plug chop as well as to play with air/fuel mixture etc.

Hope this helps and let me know if I can further assist.

Swy

 

Thanks Swy, So, just to be clear, when the pipe manufacturer suggest that you should "Remove the Snorkel" then you would do what I described in my earlier post, which is to remove the clamp, and pull off the rubber snorkel that is attached to the air box lid? If so, is removing the snorkel more effective than cutting the flaps out of the snorkel?

As far as the slip on, maybe you can provide some input as to my thinking. In the Dirt Wheels February issue they had a Raptor Pipe shoot out, which I remember steered up quite a pissing contest on the forum. Anyway, looking at their specs and descriptions of the pipes, I noticed that some of the pipes in the shoot out had the exact same dimensions as the stock Raptor pipe. (By pipe I am referring to the Header pipe and Mid Pipe) Among those pipes was the Pro Circuit T-4 Exhaust system. They listed it's header pipe and mid pipe as the exact same diameter as the stock pipe. Also, the Pro Circuit Head pipe and Mid Pipe seam to come together in the same location as the stock pipe. Which leads me to believe that it will not flow any differently than the stock Header pipe and Mid pipe. I would assume that the only reason to purchase the Pro Circuit Header Pipe and Mid pipe would be for the weight savings. Anyway, after looking at the spec's and comparing the pictures of the Pro Circuit pipe to my stock pipe I would think that putting the Pro Circuit T-4 Slip On Silencer, onto my stock Header Pipe and Mid Pipe would yelled the same performance as there full exhaust system, since their doesn't seam to be any difference between their Header Pipe and Mid pipe, and the stock Raptors, other than weight savings. The shoot out listed that the Pro Circuit T-4 pipe made 30.1 Hp at 4,000 RPM and 42.9 HP at 6,300 RPM, with a stock air box and 150/155 jetting. They're for I am hoping to achieve that same performance with their Slip On, rejetting, and removing the Snorkel. Does this seam reasonable, or am I missing something? I know every bike will perform a little differently, but I would think that with these mod's, I should be able to hit the 42 Hp mark. What do you think?

 

Regarding the question about flap removal vs. snorkle removal, "I think" that snorkle removal will probably get the best results. BUT, I am not an engine builder and have not done a comparison testing the two modifications back to back, so take it for what you want.

Regarding your info from DW mag, I get thier mag and take what they say with a grain of salt! For instance, they said that the Trinity pipe was chrome coded mild steel, when in all actuality it is stainless. If you ever read that mag carefully, the spelling, HP numbers, thoughts, etc, etc, etc, etc are worth about NILL!

A full exhaust will provide bigger numbers on a "stock" Rap, but a slip-on will still give you a real good gain. I think it depends on what you "might do" to your Rap in the future. Are you going to consider a high comp piston, maybe a cam, maybe have the head worked on? These are things you should consider now. If you said no, to all the above modifications, then a slip-on will be your best economical solution. If you plan to mod it further in the future, go with the full exhaust now, so you get the most of the other parts later.

MY OPINION:
Personally, if you are going to go ahead with the full exhaust, look at the Yosh, Trinity or Sparks units. "I FEEL" these are the best of the best and are all available in stainless which means good looks with alot less maintenance.

Swy

 

Thanks Swy, I am not planning on any motor mods in the future. I am actually satisfied with the stock performance, but I don't want any problems from the full piped and jetted Z400's out there. So I would like a HP boost, but I'm not looking for "Max" power. I am hoping to get my Raptor up to 40+ HP at the rear wheels. But I don't want to spend the money on the full system, as like I said, I don't plan on doing any motor mods. I just want to stay competitive, not be the fastest.

What slip on would you suggest as the best performer? Like I said, I want to do the following "easy" mods, and I hope to achieve 40+ rear wheel HP:

1: Remove the Air Box Snorkel
2: Rejet
3: New Filter
4: Good Slip on

 

One of the first items I would recommend, is using either a aftermarket airbox (my first choice, but most expensive) or using a Proflow system. The stock filtration system is a horrible excuse for anything but filtration.

Aftermarket airboxes can be purchased from a couple of companies, I just so happen to use the Graydon airbox. They were the first to come out with it, so. CFM makes one and I know there are atleast one other company as well. Look at thier web sites, Graydon atleast. CFM's can be seen on e-bay using a Raptor search. I also think that Pingry's makes on too.

The Proflow is going to be cheaper, but not as good. It is however, much much better then the stock filtering system, if that's what you wanna call it.

Regarding the slip-on, I don't think you can go wrong with a (In no particualr order) Sparks, Yosh, WB e-series, Big Gun, Pro Circ or the GYTR slip-ons. All will do what you want and look decent. Another thing to think about is sound and spark arrestor. Do you have restrictions where you ride? If so, a disk system would probably be the way to go for lowering sound when you need it and you can go louder (more power) when you can. Stay away from the FMF Power Core, I had it and it doesn't hold up. Repacking the FMF PC2 is a real pain in the a$$ too.

Good luck on your decisions and I hoped I shed some light on your concerns!

Swy

 

Thanks for all your input Swy. Noise is not really a concern, as I ride out in the desert. Although, I don't want a super loud pipe, but it seams most of them are between 100, and 102 db.

The air box sounds like a good idea, but too much money right now. Maybe later, but for now, I will just remove the snorkel, run a twin Air air filter, rejet, and use a good slip on. Probably the Pro Circuit T-4 because their head pipe and mid pipe are the same dimensions as the stock pipe. There for I should be able to expect similar performance to their full system with just the slip on, especially since they don't list any air box mods, and I am planning on removing my snorkel. I should be easily able to break 40 Hp with these mods. I hope [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

Thanks again.

 

I've completed similar "minimal" mods:

1) Slip-on pipe.
2) Pro-flow foam filter system (with aluminum mounting plate in stock airbox - snorkel flap removed).
3) Dynojet jet kit.

The seat-of-the-pants power increase is noticable.

Unfortunately, I bought an FMF PC4 slip-on. DO NOT BUY IT - Swytak is absolutely right - it's not built to last at all - it's a real turd ! The only good part about FMF is their stickers.

Hope this helps.

PS - Area51, did ya get in on any of the Nevada 1000 action ?

 

Hey fisher1648, thanks for the input. I was looking at the FMF earlier today. Glad you guy's told me not to get it. Right now as you can tell, I am leaning towards the Pro Circuit T-4 because of what I mentioned in the above post. Dirt Wheels for what is worth, tested all of the pipes and the Pro Circuit T-4 mad 43.9 Hp. Not near the most Hp, but it did it with a header pipe and mid pipe that are exactly like the stock Raptor pipe and with no air box mods. So I'm hoping that I can duplicate that power curve with the mods that I listed above. Like I said, I'm not trying for the most powerful Raptor, just want to get it over that 40 Hp mark [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

Why did you decide to trim the snorkel flap, rather than just remove it? Just curious. Also, I know you said that the "Seat of the pant's feel" was noticeable, but how noticeable? Is it a pretty big power change? I just want to know before I spend the money. I don't know if I want to drop $500.00 for pipe and jetting, if it isn't very noticeable, know what I mean. Are you glad that you did it? Was the difference worth the money to you?

Didn't get to partake in the 1000, but I bet it would be a blast!