Ok, my buddy & I got the new Wiseco 100mm 11:1 stock sized piston put in & are waiting for the new Hotcam Stage I to arrive & I am getting differing opinions regarding using high octane pump gas or race. I was told that 92 octane was sufficient, another said to use 93-94 octane pump gas, a few others said to use 95 or better race gas. What is everybody else using & is it really necessary or just precautious overkill? Except for a full Yosh pipe, Prodesign foam filter with no lid & some carb jetting these are the only engine mods I'll have.

I've heard there is at least two or three types of race gas, does anybody have the octane specs for each. Someone said Sunoco makes a 95 octane race gas called "fast blue" or "true blue"? Even if I need to use race gas it sounds like I can get away with the lower octane version!?

I am also getting differing opinions on how to break in my new engine. Hotcams says absolutely "DO NOT" let the engine idle during break in since the lower oil pressure can cause premature/uneven cam wear. They said to ride it around immediatley upon start up & to be sure to rev it freely up & down the rpm range but not to put any severe load on it for a while. 10 mins riding with 30 mins cool down for an hour or so.

Wiseco piston also advises to avoid letting it idle but they said to avoid revving it freely & to drive it @ low rpms for at least one tankful. 10 mins riding with 30 mins cool down.

If I recall, my manual said to maintain low rpm riding for 0-10 hours, then to slowly/incrementally rev it more & more freely until 20 hours, then let her rip. My stock bike/piston took a while before it was at full power capability, between 10-20 hours!

On the other hand, Duncan racing says to let it idle for 10 mins, then cool 30 mins for 3 periods. Then ride low rpm for 10 mins, then cool 30 mins, then increment the rpm range, then cool for a total of about an hour or so.

Wiseco says to break in their piston without the Stage I cam & Hotcams says to break in their cam without the wiseco piston-too complicated!

The common method is to take it easy for a while, some say let it idle, others say never idle during break in, others say rev freely with light load, others say low rpm with light load.

Your opinions are welcome!

 

Here is something that might help. VP It talks alot about their fuels. I didn't know there was so many choices until I started looking.

Here is a search from Yahoo that I found some good stuff on.

I am intrested to know about the break in as well.

 

My best guess would be to install one first, break it in (whichever one breaks in faster) then install the other and break it in. By that time the sweat should be running down your brow because of all the effort it requires to not let it rip and see what youve gained. Why do they have to make break in so wierd? what if you built an engine from the ground up will all aftermarket parts, they all want diferent break in procedures so i guess you just never run it and sit and look at all your money.

 

Chimmer, take this for what it is worth to ya, it is only how I did my piston, cam, and new tranny break-in (hehe)! Hey, wait a minute, that wasn't funny!!

Rode it immediately at low to mid RPM's but never at steady RPM's, always fluctuating the throttle... for about 10 minutes. Let it completely cool down. Rode it again in the same manner for about 20 minutes and let it completely cool down. Rode it again for about 30 minutes with some hard hits to the throttle for short blasts ever so often, then put it away for the day.

The next time out, I rode for about 5 hours with at least 15 minute cool downs about every hour. This day I rode it up to full throttle for quick spurts through out the day. Then put it away again.

After that I put a couple more hours on it around the house over a few days. Then the next weekend me and my buddies went to Haspin Acres for an all day ride, I started the day out kinda easy, but by late morning, I was giving her all she had! Raced her on the drag strip several times as well. Since then, the wrath of Raptoid has taken claim!

To some, it may have been a fairly quick break-in.... but hey, might as well break her right eh?! Just like you're gonna ride her... everyday.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

"TOID"

 

BTW ~ someone turned me on to some of the best gas attitive/octane booster with a top end coolant added. It is KLOTZ Nitro. I buy the Amoco Gold 93 and add 3oz of it per gallon.

Although both manufacturers said that pump gas at 93 octane was sufficient. I've been running the Klotz since I considered break-in complete. I am really liking the clean burning, power added results in using it.

"TOID"

 

I would shell out the cash and at least use a good octane boost. 10.5:1 is about the most compression I would chance with pump. Any amount of spark knock is too much.

What is up with not breaking in your cam and piston at the same time? That is the stupidest thing I have heard all day! The only thing you might need to change (other than your type of oil) during break-in and what you will run after break-in is possibly the valve springs. If you are running a VERY high pressure double valve spring, you might remove the inner spring. This takes some pressure off the lobe surfaces. You must be careful to to rev the engine too high.

Just don't break in on synthetic, it is too slick.

 

Octane boost that you buy in an auto parts store is a rip off. It raises the octane rating one point. So if you have 93 octane gas, it will raise it to 93.1. Rip off!

 

Klotz - for off road racing engines, suposedly will boost 91 to 98 with the 4oz per gallon. You may also have to raise up to 4 jet sizes because of it too (that is what it claims on the bottle). Plus it has a built in head coolant in it. I can only find it at ONE dealership around me. Not everyone carrys it, and no auto parts store will have it, I don't believe.

Just another tid-bit.
"TOID"

 

Thanks for the info guys, seems like V10/V12 & VP Red is readily available but is much higher octane than I need. Cost is around $5.25/gallon give or take. It would be nice if you could buy exactly what you want over the internet!

 

Never seen Klotz before. According to their website 1 oz will raise 1 gallon 1.5 numbers. Thats doesn't sound to bad, if they are using the same point sytem. Let me do some research. I know that "octane boost" and "NOS octane boost" are rip offs.

You can mix toloune or xyelene pretty cheap for some extra octane.

Tolulene is 112 octane. (you can't just add toluene) So if you put 1 gallon of pure tolulene in a 20 gallon tank of 93 octane gas, you have 112*1/20+93*19/20 or a total octane of 93.95, or 1 real octane point.