Hey guys. I'm running my wolv. stock from engine mods right now. I am 100% sure i am getting the highlifter 2x4 to 4x4 kit for my Wolverine but they are offering a package for 500 somthing dollars to get an unlocker and a detroit gearless locker. First of all do you guys think it is a good deal the unlocker alone would cost me 280. This locker is supposed to be real good because when you turn it disingauges the outside wheel to stop hopping. but anyways I wanted to know if you guys think it's a good deal, but also how much of a difference will a locker make on my wolverine. I have read about them plenty but I have never had the chance to compare one with and without a locker on it so I don't really know what the difference is. most of the time both of my wheels spin in the mud once i punch it with the regular 3 wheel drive. I will also be getting 24 inch dirt devils soon and a Alba power kit with K&N filter, FMF megamax pipe, torque stuffer and jet kit. so what do you guys think. I'm looking for any opinions/information you guys have.

Thanks,

Evan

 

This may not help you but I had a wolvy and rather than put more $ into it I sold it and bought a new Raptor. I couldn't be happier.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

Well, I'm happy for you,too,Murph,but how does that answer his question? He's not looking to sell, he' looking for information.CT- the locker will definately help in the mud,when the load on both wheels is equal,like straight ahead driving in mud,the front will be locked and pull a lot better,on hard surfaces,the faster wheel(inside) will cause the locker to open slightly an allow it to turn easier. You are smart to keep the tire size near stock,the gearing on the Wolv is more sporty,so it will bog with big tires without some engine mods. Pipe and filter will help,but if you mud a lot,some minor mods will help a lot. Just adding a bigger hi compression piston will wake up the bottom end,and not cost a lot.

 

95 wolf what kin of boot guards do you have & where did you get them from?

 

They are factory Yamaha boot covers,they are Kevlar and nylon,they wrap around the rubber boot,velcro together,then use zip ties on the ends to hold them tight. Haven't had a problem since 95,when I put them on. Nothing wrong with the aluminum stick sotppers,I just don't like all the bolts sticking down,but you should be able to flip the bolts around to get more clearance under the a arms.

 

I have the diamond plate cv guards, no bolts sticking down. Any kind of stick stoppers is better than none, having to change a boot is a pain in the a** that we can all live without.

 

How do the drilled clutch weights work and how hard is it to do.

 

Not real hard,best to drain the oil(or tilt quad to the left to keep oil in) you then take off the right side engine cover,if you are careful you can save the gasket,but better have a new one handy in case you rip it. You will see the centrifical weights,they have friction material on the ends. Take the tension springs off,slide the weights off (don't loose the bushing that goes over the pin) Take one weight,drill a 3/16" hole as near the tip as possible,do NOT drill out the rivet,or too near it that you may hit it.(holds the shoe layers together)Then use the first one you drilled as a template and use it to mark the holes on the other weights. Then reinstall,fill with oil and drive. This raises the engagement point about 400 rpm,which helps with bigger tires bogging in the mud.It will not affect top end,or help much with stock tires. (I drilled mine,too,but ran out of room to list all my mods!!!)

 

Thanks for the help 95Wolv. I'll try it when I get my new set of tires. Sorry to bug you again, but did you also change the piston & cam yourself. Someone told me that if I really wanted to see some performance from my aftermarket addons I would need to change the piston & cam.. Any advice on this. Also what would I use on mine since it's fairly new .20, .40 etc.. piston & cam?

 

I got my .040 over piston and cam (88 grind) from Hi-lifter,it is a Web cam and Wiseco piston,so you can get them anywhere,just make sure and get the hi performance valve springs. Doing it yourself is not hard,once you take all the fron plastic off and the tank,it is easy access.I took the head to a local dealer to have the springs put in,and he raced a Warrior,so I had him port it,too. I had him send out the jug to be bored out,you can probably get a lot done locally if you check around.Putting it all back together is a snap,just keeping the timing chain from falling into the motor,and stuff all holes with rags until the new piston is on the rod,I had to go fishing for a circlip,not fun. The bottom of the jug is tapered,so pushing the rings in and feeding the piston back into the jug is not bad,just takes nimble fingers. If you can find a buddie's Warrior Clymer manual,it will have a nice step by step picture set up to follow,that's what I did,it was a lot simplier than I thought,and hearing it pop to life after YOU did all the work is very satisfying. Good luck, and go get 'em !!