I recently purchased a 2002 Grizzly and so far love it,. but it started stumbling and sputtering. It happens after I've been riding about an hour or so, especially slower riding. When I shut it off for a while and restart it, it stumbles bad. Took it to the dealer today and they said this is only the second one they heard of....yeah right. They tell me the 600's were really bad about it. Said it is the gas that is boiling and that they are going to put a shield on the exhaust near the carb to fix the problem under warranty. Sounds good if it fixes it. They also tell me the gas that is being used in Ky, where I live, and some surrounding states has a much lower boiling point than other states out west. Maybe, but I never had a problem before with my other atv's.What do ya'll think? All in all I love the bike, Still trying to get used to rear suspension but it is one tough quad.

 

I live in Florida and have the same fuel boiling problem. This seems to be causing a vapor lock, so my bike is doing the same thing. My dealership says that Yamaha is NOT going to warranty this problem anymore, though they should. Let me know if they warranty it and theres a 660 poll in the poll forum about this and other Grizz problems.

 

i live here in western new york and have never had this problem. i work it all the time, even on the hottest days and crawling speeds, still no problems. guess i'm just lucky. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

Im from Eastern NC and have had the boiling problem twice, but that was during a very slow ride and a low fuel level. I rejetted my carbs and havent had the problem since. Although, I dont ride too slow lol

 

i had alot of the griz problems that are out there. to stop the boiling gas, i cut holes in my side panels. this allows more air to excape when going slow on hot days. it also lets out steam, witch will make the griz sputter real bad. i also wrapped my exhaust, and that made a world of differance. next i rejetted it, and dialed it in real good. i installed a heat temp guage from highlifter, and it helps me keep an eye on it. all this combined stoped the boiling gas, overheating, and sputtering.
the best advice i can offer anyone with a griz is adjusting the valves more often than sudjested. i do mine every 25 hours, and the 3 intake are ALWAYS tight. this will kill the performance of the griz.
good luck

 

NC660Mudder, could you tell me where you got that guy running around above your name from? Thanks

 

Mich660.....good idea on the vales also. I check mine every 25-30 hrs also. Like you said, the 3 intakes are always a lil too tight.

Rubi500, I've had that icon so long I cant remember if I made it or found it LOL I have tons of animated images. You can email me at chadster@nc.rr.com and I will be glad to send a few.

 

Just Got the grizz back from the dealer and they installed a heat shield on the exhaust neard carb bowl, for free under warranty. Time will tell if it works. Now I noticed the clock won't keep time and sometimes when I start it it almost doesn't want to crank. dealer says never seen that problem before, how about ya'll? That's my luck 2 weeks before warranty runs out. Also thanks for all the replies,noticed the people in the south east ARE having problems with the gas boiling and out west where you would think the heat would reak Havoc on the vapor locking they aren't complaining at all about it, Maybe it is the fuel in our area, who know. Thanks again.

 

What's the nitty gritty on the cranking problem? Does the engine turn over slow or just spin and spin? Or does it turn over and few times then the starter stops turing all together? Have you submerged your CDI under water? Ive seen a few incidences where some friends have tried to turn their Grizz into a submarine(including myself).....the end result was the neutral light would not come resulting in having to pull start the engine. Another glitch was the clock didn't want to keep correct time. Fill me in a lil more on your prob.

 

Sorry for the slow response NC660 but as soon as you hit the starter button it nbarely wants to crank then picks up speed and cranks normal. Not all the time but when it does it the clock loses time. It seems like it has a bad ground or battery. I dropped it off at dealer new years eve so they can take a look because they were going to replace instrument cluster anyway under warr. And they were going to look at stumbling/vapor locking again. 9 more days and warranty runs out so I guess I'll be trying to fix it.