sixsixT, I see now that wasn't the problem but yes I do. A friend of mine had it ahppen to him. It was kinking and sometimes it would happen right at start up and other times it would be later down the road. It took awhile before we figured out what the problem was. We actualy brought it to the shop and they said they couldn't find the problem. We got it back and found it that afternoon.


Notu, did you cover the ends of the wires you cut? I don't think that would be it it but maybe. Deffinately do your valves and clean the carbs, it can't hurt anyway.

 

Thanks again for all the help.

sixsixT, I never cut the wires - just unplugged them.

I've adjusted the valves. The intake valves were a little tight but still had play. The exhaust valves were within tolerances.

The choke is definitely working okay. Took it apart and it was clean as a whistle.

I didn't get a chance to go into the carbs yet. I was cleaning and rearranging the garage at the same time. Trying to get all my tools locked up. Girlfriends son managed to break my Craftsmen 3/8" torque wrench. Wonder if they will give me a new one.

I wish I had another Raptor so I could swap a few of the electrical components.

/NotuRaptor

 

This a problem with Bombs cause the gas tank breather hose wraps around the tank a couple times but, Next time it happens try loosening the gas cap and see if the problem goes away. Maybe it's not venting as it should??

 

Did you replace the stock clutch perch or just get rid of the parking brake? The two wires that run from the stock clutch perch to the bullet connectors can be disconnected if the mates are connected to each other next to the radiator. Those same two wires also control some rev limiter functions and whether or not you can start in gear. My stock clutch perch micro switch would sometimes stick and cause wierd rev limiter behavior.

 

UBETRUN,

Replaced the stock clutch perch with the rear brake perch from a Yamaha Kodiak. It uses the same lever. The main benefit is that it allows you to keep the clutch safety switch. It cleans up the bars quite a bit. The emergency brake is completely disconnected.
I will try jumpering the switch tomorrow to see if that makes a difference.

Thanks,

NotuRaptor

 

I had the same thought as wshrdskin.And I think your on the right track, if the fuel system checks out electrical is next. A bad coil or cdi can have the same symptoms, heat up and start breaking down.Hopefully it's not the cdi box.

Ward I don't doubt what you said it just seems if it were kinked the problem would be constant, but sometimes thing are beyond explanation.

 

I'm new to the Raptor so forgive my ingnorance........does the Raptor have a coil or is everything powered from the Stator? Maybe the coil or Stator is heating up and not functioning properly IE. not enough spark or intermitten spark. It seems it only happens when you run it hard, for long period of time or around half throttle.
If you let it cool down it runs fine.....correct? Does the Raptor have an over heating regulator...or just the idiot light?

Just some thought off the top of my head

edit/ Didn't see SixSixT's post...we are on the same page. /edit

Shane

 

03Raptor, it has a coil. It did run fine with a cool down until today. I guess the good thing is that it is being consistent now.

sixsixT, any chance the coil would have gone bad when the spark plug boot was bad? I am not sure how long the screw that screws into the spark plug wire was broken. I know I rode at least 4 hours that way after noticing it. It was such a clean break that it took me a while to realize that it was broken. I even posted once that I was surprised that the plug wire was only held into the spark plug cap by a rubber cap.

/NotuRaptor

 

It's possible a bad wire could cause coil or cdi problems.If it was bad enough that it would not constantly ground it would want to find a path to ground through the coil and cause damage or feedback to the cdi box.The extra air gap that the current had to overcome would make for higher voltages but I'm not sure that would cause any damage as long as it was able to complete the circuit but I guess it's possible.

 

Two things to try, easiest first:

1) Try running it with the gas cap about 1/4 - 1/2 turn loose. My vent hose got plugged up during a really muddy race. About every 5 minutes my raptor would start to sputter and cough because a vacuum was being created in the gas tank. I was using up gas, but no air was getting in to take its place. I had to unscrew the cap for a second, then it ran fine for 5-10 more minutes.

2) Try to find a buddy with an '01 Raptor who will let you borrow his CDI and coil. Try one, then the other. When I fried my Dyna CDI box my raptor ran all sorts of wierd, until it finally died for good. (Damn kill switch!)

Good Luck!

RR1