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Hello all. I could use some advice on fixing this trike. Just got it for 150 bucks. I have cleaned the carb and adjusted the chain. The bike will not start with the pull. It will start if I roll it down a hill and throw it in gear. This points me to the ignition coil. Not enough zip at low RPM pull rope to spark it. It also stays revved sometimes and won't come back to idle. Could this be part of the coil problem? I have also discovered a leak-- looks like it is coming from the decompression lever on the head. The oil drips onto the pipe and smokes. Is there a seal there that I can replace? See the picture. I originally wanted to fix this trike for the kids to use. After riding it though, I am thinking it might kill somebody-- it is very fast. I will probably sell it when I get it fixed up. I need a few things for it to make it complete. Does anyone out there have a parts bike? The lights are missing, needs front brake cable and hand lever. Needs left side lever and bar clamp. Could really use all new plastics for a full restore-- but I probably won't go that far. I have very little money for this project.
Please let me know your thoughts on these issues. Thanks.
valve adj. So if I turn the adjustment screw out a bit it will start easy?
I will try to do this. I am a bit frustrated with the manual. How the heck do you even get the feeler gauge in there? And how do you get a screw driver in there with the frame in the way? I tried to get TDC by lining up the marks and then feeling for slack in the rocker arm. I have yet to feel any slack in the rocker arm, no matter where I put the piston. Both sides of valves go up and down okay, but as far as slack goes-- I don't get it. I am going to go ahead and try to bring the adj. screw out a bit on the gas side. Maybe by some miracle it will work.
The feeler gauges I got don't even have .002. The thinnest is .008-- so they are useless. .002 is an incredibly thin gap-- how can it really be accurately set at that thinness?
Turned the adjustment screw clockwise a turn. Still won't start with pull cord. Now I probably have messed up the valve gap. Trying to take flywheel off to change coil. Does the nut come off normal, counter clock? Any way to get wheel off without puller?
Well, I set the valve clearance to .002 as per the manual. I also got the flywheel off and replaced the stator coil. Still will not start with pull-start. Did not help to squirt ether into the carb. THE THING RUNS LIKE A BAT OUT OF HELL WHEN YOU PUSH START IT down a hill, BUT CAN'T GET IT TO EVEN POP WITH THE ROPE. Please offer any advice you might have. Thanks.