Boughta 1999 xplorer 400 was running rough blowing coolant out pipe from very poor head gasket fix attemp. Whoever did the gasket had gouged the head prob trying to pull it off with a screwdriver. Well then they used red rtv to try and seal it along with the gasket itself. So i pulled the head and cylinder off to see a scored piston and cylinder. My question is if i did have coolant blowing into combushtion chamber would some of it end up in the bottom end. I noticed there was a little mixed into the oil of the balancer. Also what oil to use for balancer and how much. Thx!

 

I hate red silicone... Amateurs always seem to use it everywhere. Sorry about your machine. I'd seriously consider taking the head and cylinder to a good machine shop and have them mill the head and cylinder to take any gouges or warping out. .005 on each should hopefully take care of it and most shops wont charge much on this. Of course it will have to be bored to the next over size piston needed and the same machine shop could do that for you. Plenty of Wiseco(the best piston) piston and complete gasket kit are on ebay along with other cheaper cast piston kits if you choose to go that way. Best thing on the bottom end is to flush it anyway with kerosene or naptha as there will be shavings at least from the piston and possible some coolant. Always check for any up and down play on the rod,have a rod kit installed if needed,along with new crank bearings and seals. Many people have just done top end repairs only and found out the hard way that a bad lower rod bearing or crank bearing can take out that brand new top end. Best to really check this carefully. Also since coolant was noticed mixed in with oil in the counter balancer cavity,new water pump seals and bearing will need to be installed also. The 350 and 400 were good engines,but costly and time consuming to rebuild and rebuild right. If you need a manual to look over here's a link to a pdf manual that can get you acquainted with the engine and what's all involved.http://visit.tradebit.com/visit.php/...75/264163829/9 manuals show 10/30 or 30 wt oil in most cases in the counter balancer cavity. Around 3.2 ounces or so.

 

Yeah i guess i will just redo w next size piston and have the cylinder bored and resurfaced. I just ordered a good used head on ebay for 20bucks. I am not going to bother with bottom end. There seems to be no play in rod. I really was hoping to flip this machine for a small profit and if i get into redoing the whole motor with pump seal i will just lose money. Hopefully the seal is ok and it was just a small amount from the bad head gasket. I did flush the bottom end out man the drain bolts are in a crappy spot!!!! I was going to try and get the studs out but they wont budge even with the nut on nut trick.

 

Not really necessary to pull the studs,but in case you ever do these are the best around. I had the Snap on set,but these would work as well. Plus a little heat and penetrating oil is the trick to removing frozen studs.BikeMaster 6, 8, 10, 12mm Stud Removal Sockets | 910-692 | J&P Cycles

 

Whats the best way to get the engine case off of the crankshaft clutch side of engine. Was able to get it off other side. Crankshaft balancer botg bearings were totally shot and missing halg the ***** in them. Pretty rusted. Going to replace all bottom end bearings,and rod bearings. Allready did top end thank god i caught this early!!!

 

Hard to get the case off the engine while still in the frame as the coolant nipple on the cover always hits the down tube on the frame. Only way I could do it was to loosen the top motor mount and front motor mount to get enough room to wiggle past the frame down tube. Once the cover is out you still have a problem on getting the counter balancer out. Have to have a puller.Counter Balancer Puller If you're trying to split the main cases,best to apply heat from a torch on the bearing area on the clutch side. Once you do this you can tap with a dead blow on the top of the cases and on the end of the crank to get this side case off. Then knock the crank shaft out of the magneto side case.

 

Oh sorry no i have pulled the motor and i made a puller to get the balancer out. I was able to get it out just need to gat the case off the clutch side off crankshaft. Maybe heat up the case and deap blow on shaft?

 

Look above at my post again..I'm always updating and adding especially when I misread posts..

 

Aaaah ha ha missed that! Ok will give it a go tomorrow after work I'm pretty sure i can do the crank bearings but the connecting rod big bearing i will have a local sanel auto machine shop do. Thanks for all your help!!!!

 

Yes a machine shop is best on installing a rod and lower bearing as you'd have to have a 20 ton press,crank shaft stands and dial indicators to true the crank shaft up. Boring cylinders,installing rod kits and truing crank shafts were what I liked to do..The best pleasure I had was to hear a new engine fire up that I completely rebuilt.. Suspension work,tires,brakes,electrical trouble shooting,etc...nah was just a job then..