When switching my sportsman into AWD and then giving it gas, I hear some random clicking/binding/grinding like it's not fully engaging or something. I'm not sure what I should take a look at or where I should start to investigate? I have a general understanding of how the system works after doing some reading on it and know it won't be in until the rear tires slip and such. It just kind of seems like when the front actually does engage, it doesn't seem like it's solidly locked in there and makes not-so-nice sounding noises, and when I was going up a sharp hill and sort of turning, my friend said he saw my front slip out of gear right at the time that I got stuck on it. Any pointers or suggestions on where I should begin to check components?? Thanks!

 

Sounds like the common problem that a lot of the early ones had on roll cages cracking in the front diff and not engaging or disengaging properly. Several different upgraded aluminum roll cages are available on ebay.Polaris Sportsman 450 500 700 800 ALUMINUM Front Differential Roll Cage Sprague | eBay Plus there are several videos on this. Here's good one on a Rzr that can help show how to take one out of the frame and the cracked plastic roll cage that he changes out.Similar to all the front diffs.

 

Oyyyy, I'm just gonna take you're word for it because from reading your posts about hard starting on these things I did the whole ignition system upgrade without hesitation once I saw the confident and spot on info you gave to others and it also solved my issue perfectly. So I'm gonna go ahead and order that cage, any other suggestions on cages or is that a decently/cheaply priced one for these machines? Do I need any other items/parts besides for that cage and 5oz of oil for the diff when changing this part out? Thanks again

 

I'd tear it down first as other parts could need replacing such as the armature plate,etc plus always replace the diff seals.2003 Polaris SPORTSMAN 700 (A03CH68AA/AC/AF/AH/AL) Front Housing | Cycle Parts Warehouse

 

Alright will do,I'll post again once I get it apart and have no idea what I'm looking at lol

 

This can go along way on helping also.2003 Polaris Sportsman 700 Service Manual PDF Download

 

Hey real quick I just got all my parts in, ended up just ordering the cage, springs, rollers, and armature so I can just change all the major things out once and for all probably tomorrow or the next day. Can the pin that holds the front drive shaft into the yoke or whatever be driven out from either side or does it only go in one way and is splined on the other end or something? Also, is there enough room that the front hub can be removed through the frame or does the radiator have to come out so you can pull it through the front? And finally, can you explain how the AWD system works because I've tried researching it and still feel like I don't fully understand it because it says not to turn the switch on when the rear tires are spinning or it can cause mechanical damage or something along those lines, but doesn't the system not actually engage until the rear tires slip anyway? So if I were to have AWD ON and my rear tires slip on ice momentarily and engage the AWD as it should wouldn't that basically be the same thing as turning it ON when the rear tires are spinning. I'm a little lost on that aspect as you can tell lol. Thanks

 

Drive shaft clevis pins have to be driven almost out. Still splined to the output hub in the front diff. Both sides have to be done this way as the diff is closed,no way to knock the other drive shaft out. Usually short rabbit jerks will pop the drive shafts out. On removing the front diff you'll find that most people have to remove or pull the radiator back to get the diff out. No you don't want to engage the awd button when wheels are spinning!! Damage can happen to the front diff. Here's part of what the manual says.

"From the service manual...."
AWD Engagement: When the AWD switch is activated, the
AWD coil is powered by a 12 Vdc input which creates a
magnetic field. This magnetic field attracts an armature plate
that is keyed to the roll cage. When the ring gear and roll cage
are spinning (vehicle is moving), the energized coil and
armature plate will apply drag to the roll cage that indexes the
rollers inside the ring gear to an engagement position. While in
the engagement position, the front drive will be in an “overrunning”
condition (not engaged), until the rear wheels lose
traction. Once the rear wheels begin to lose traction, the front
drive will engage by coupling the output hubs to the ring gear via
the rollers. The front drive will remain engaged until the torque
requirement goes away (i.e. rear wheels regain traction).
AWD Disengagement: Once the rear wheels regain traction,
the front wheels will return to the “over-running” condition.
The vehicle is now back to rear wheel drive until the next loss
of rear wheel traction occurs" In other words it's an electro/mechanical engagement..

Plus here's a good video of awd action on ice.

 

Ahhh okay, I was under the impression nothing really happened with anything in the system until it loses traction, I see now. Damn was hoping to not have to touch the rad, glad I'm replacing everything all at once though so I'll never have to go in there again hopefully lol

 

Front axles pop out like a normal axle, just pry between the lip on the axle and the diff and pop her out??