2001 Magnum 500 Overheating
#1
2001 Magnum 500 Overheating
New to this site. I'm hoping to find one of the pros on here to help me get my problem fixed.
I checked the sensor in rad and ended up buying new one. Both sensors actually work so bought one for nothing and still overheating.
Checked thermostat in a container heating up water and it opens and closes.
Checked water pump and it seems ok,started motor for a second and watched impeller spin.
Tried jacking up front while putting antifreeze slowly into rad to burb system and opened the little bleeder on water pump.
Still always overheats
Last night I took rad off thinking it's blocked,from what I can see inside it looks good,clean. Is there a way to check it with water.
What should I do next, I'm at a standstill here and need help.
I checked the sensor in rad and ended up buying new one. Both sensors actually work so bought one for nothing and still overheating.
Checked thermostat in a container heating up water and it opens and closes.
Checked water pump and it seems ok,started motor for a second and watched impeller spin.
Tried jacking up front while putting antifreeze slowly into rad to burb system and opened the little bleeder on water pump.
Still always overheats
Last night I took rad off thinking it's blocked,from what I can see inside it looks good,clean. Is there a way to check it with water.
What should I do next, I'm at a standstill here and need help.
#2
It's not just what's inside the radiator but the area mainly behind the fan shroud. Radiators need to be clean front and rear on the older models as they were mounted lower and caught everything.Also if working right the fan should kick on way before the hot light does. Sometimes takes several minute to purge all the air out of the system and allow the fan to cycle on and off 3 or more times.Then you should be able to top of the radiator and over flow bottle. You ca do an amperage test on the fan motor also. If it takes more than 7 amps to kick on,the fan motor may be getting weak.
#3
It's not just what's inside the radiator but the area mainly behind the fan shroud. Radiators need to be clean front and rear on the older models as they were mounted lower and caught everything.Also if working right the fan should kick on way before the hot light does. Sometimes takes several minute to purge all the air out of the system and allow the fan to cycle on and off 3 or more times.Then you should be able to top of the radiator and over flow bottle. You ca do an amperage test on the fan motor also. If it takes more than 7 amps to kick on,the fan motor may be getting weak.
#5
Tried holding impeller with a piece of wood while buddy bumped the motor over with no spark plug, impeller chewed up wood. Would it be wise to put a stainless lockwasher under the nut, just in case. Will be borrowing a pressure tester and let you know the results. Been reading a lot of people have had this same problem, seems like airlock is a big problem. Is there no easy way to get the air out other than flipping the machine head over heels.
#6
#7
Just takes time. With the front end jacked up,I've spent as long as 45 minute to an hour purging air pockets out of some machines.Main thing is the fan needs to kick on before the hot light does. Plus you have to leave the radiator cap off at all times during this process.
Is it ok to remove thermostat and run it without one for better circulation.
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#8
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#10
The thermostat is there to control the flow of the water. With out the thermostat the coolant will move too fast and not take the engine heat away with it. Plus the coolant needs to stay in the radiator to cool down and not just race through. Fan sensor may not trigger in time before the hot light does. Use the thermostat,good 50/50or 60/40 coolant.