Im going crazy, I usually pride myself with being able to fix anything. however.....
I have a 98 300 Polaris 4x4, I just rebuilt the motor and bypassed the oil injection and am now having problems starting it. it backfires and wont start at times, had it running other day and it idled up as i put it into reverse. i replaced the cable with one from ritter cycle and it was great for a little bit, but now acting up the same. I saw a post about bypassing the throttle switch and cant find a diagram??? I tried unplugging the black wire on the rev limiter, no help, I also jumped the two wirs for the throttle switch at the main board in the front. not sure if there's more to it than just jumping the terminals? (i made a nice wire with spade terminal) still not working good. can anyone give me advice on how to bypass that. I know its there for a reason and if its my issue ill replace it, but can throw any more money at it yet. Thanks for any help. Its my plow unit and of course were getting snow here.

 

Did you replace the crank seals when you worked on it? Does it have spark? Have you rechecked compression to see where you stand? I'd check all this before jumping,changing wires,plus I wouldn't defeat the etc switch in the throttle housing!

 

OPT, yes new seals, fresh bore and oversized piston. 135psi compression, it was running great when I first put the ritter cable on it. actually never ran better. idled great and went into gears better than ever, but when i moved the bars or tried to route the cable it would rev because the cable is loose on the ends so i started messing with the cable and now its not starting, i adjusted cable all over and tried unplugging things but still backfires thru exhaust and doesnt want to start. I know its not right but I really want to eliminate the ect for now but not sure what else I have to do, I tried unplugging it and tried jumping across the two terminals. I cant afford to throw more cash till I know for sure what is needed. Thanks for any and all help.Corey

 

This where a 5 buck manual can help more than anything. I'd check electrical trouble shooting guides along with stator resistance specs for a start.Can help keep you from throwing parts at it.http://visit.tradebit.com/visit.php/...75/264163234/9

 

I did a few more tests. I pulled the plug and messed with the throttle adjustment and no matter how I have it adjusted with the cover off and looking at the contacts on the etc switch i always have spark. I guess tomorrow night ill play more with it and see what I find. The thing that bugs me is that after I replaced the cable It ran great in my garage except when I moved the bars it would Idle up due to the cable not being secure on both end like the original cable was. It was a aftermarket cable made for oil inj bypass.

 

Sounds like the cable is where your problem is. It needs to be secured at the carb cap to keep it from pulling up and increasing throttle.This can also be dangerous. Plus if the cable is moving back and forth then it also affects the etc switch in the throttle housing.Sometimes it's just best to keep the oem split cable,keep the oil pump in place and hooked up, oil tank drained,but block off the injector port in the carb.This allows proper tension on the throttle cable and etc switch. A lot of other machines don't have an etc switch in the throttle housing and would probably work ok,but trying to defeat this switch can cause headaches on Polaris machines.

 

to cold out tonight , but tomorrow ill build a fire in the shop. and I guess ill mess with cable adj again, . I just seems to me that I should either be able to unplug the wires from the etc switch or jump them at the board and it should run no mater if I have a cable or a shoe string hooked to the carb??

 

Before trying to defeat the switch,see if you can zip tie or even crimp the cable end connector to the top of the carb cap or even a zip tie on the cable to the frame closest to the carb. This seems to be the easiest thing to do so the cable wont move around.Polaris did this on the first 700s to keep the cable from binding.

 

I actually today at work took the factory cable apart, and were the side is for the two cable to be one there is 3 slots and I removed the cut oil cable and moved the carb one to the center so it doesnt bind and slides nice. ill see if how it works tonight, the factory one is very well made on the ends.

 

Yep that's another way of doing it by eliminating the oil pump cable from the splitter.Hope it works ok for you.