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need help on no spark

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Old 03-03-2015, 03:53 PM
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Default need help on no spark

as stated in the subject line i recently as in today went ahead and took off the oil injection reservoir since i am premixing. i also did this in order to replace my voltage regulator but low and behold it was just because i didnt have it plugged in man was i upset when i saw that. anyhow while i was there i went ahead and checked to see if i had power coming from my grey wires for my 4 x 4 problem which i was. so then i went to fire her up and she wouldnt start. so i got to thinking and unplugged the black wire coming from the cdi. and she started right up. so i am wanting to know if there is a way to figure out where it is coming from it has to either be something with the LH switch or the ignition key. and u wanna know what's funny is that if i have her running and i plug the black wire from the cdi back in she will continue to run.
thanks
RUBEN
 
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Old 03-03-2015, 04:42 PM
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Flip your emergency kill switch back and forth several times and see if it helps. Can get corrosion on the contacts. Clean the connectors,make sure they are firmly seated in the switch.Not unusual for the left switch to have problems. Have replaced plenty of these over the years.If none of this helps,them it's down to tracing wires from the key switch and left control switch themselves and down into the main harness if necessary.Black kill wire can short out internally on the cdi,but most times if you plug it back in it will kill the spark.Doesn't sound like it's the cdi,but possible it won't crank with it initially plugged in,but will stay running once plugged back in. Ain't electrical trouble shooting fun. Plus look at the wiring schematic at where all wires tire in. Really helps on tracking down problems.
 
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Old 03-04-2015, 07:53 AM
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yeahso i got to thinking last night right and maybe i can just disconnect each of the black wires coming from each source. you know first disconnect the black wire coming from the ignition switch and see if she'll start. then if she doesnt then disconnect the black wire coming from the LH switch. thats one way of figuring/eliminating where the source of no spark is coming from. and if she still wont start then it is coming from the e.t.c. what do u think OPT. i mean considering that everything was just fine until i took off the old reservoir (oil) and ran the check as stated in my original post.
THANKS IN ADVANCE
RUBEN
 
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Old 03-04-2015, 09:05 AM
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You can try eliminating the black wires and see if you regain spark,but retrace your steps on removing the oil tank. A simple loose ground wire can cause problems. Plus if that doesn't help,look at the stator resistance checks.Could be a coincidence that it may have been a problem ready to happen. Resistance readings can eliminate it and the coil.Plus on these old style etc switches you have to have tight throttle.
 
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Old 03-04-2015, 12:51 PM
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YEAH NO i got it turn out being the LH switch i did what u told me to do about moving the run/off button side to side and that seemed to have helped. although it did it to me again later on. now when u said "Clean the connectors,make sure they are firmly seated in the switch." are you talking about in the switch itself or the connectors that plug into the terminal board.
THANKS
RUBEN
 

Last edited by 95scramblerruben1033; 03-04-2015 at 12:52 PM. Reason: added some stuff
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Old 03-04-2015, 01:04 PM
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The connectors that plug into it! Left switch is bad on corrosion over the years on internal contacts also. Plus make sure the connectors seat firmly and aren't loose and wobbly from vibration. Have found that to be a problem over the years also.Use a little dielectric grease if you have it. If it turns out it's internal,kinda hard to tear one apart without all the springs and brass parts flying around. That's when I ended up just replacing the switch assy. Hope it's just the connections and a little corrosion on the contacts of the sliding on/off switch. Yes check the terminal board on this model. Had the newer models in mind that have the plug in connectors at the switch itself.. Sorry.. Plus new switches are becoming scarce. If you need one several on ebay,plus just google your part number. #4110157.http://www.vehicles-parts.com/detail...739967685.html http://www.ebay.com/itm/1995-POLARIS-XPLORER-400-4X4-HANDLEBAR-SWITCH-BLOCK-4110157-/390908816958?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5b03fb2e3e&vxp=mtr
 

Last edited by old polaris tech; 03-04-2015 at 01:12 PM. Reason: Edit for year model difference!
  #7  
Old 03-04-2015, 02:28 PM
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Yeah no i bought mine brand new in June of 2013, so thats pretty weird that it would get corroded already especially since my atv is garage kept.and no worries i have some dielectric grease that i am going to use now i have a quick question is there any way to tear into the run/off switch.
Thanks
Ruben
 
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Old 03-04-2015, 02:58 PM
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Personally I wouldn't do it as several have posted doing this and having the spring and small brass contacts fly out.Had the same thing happen when I tore into an old one just to see how it ticked. I'd take electrical contact cleaner with a spray tube and spray though the open slots and work all the switches back and forth. All of them,including the light switch,over ride,start switch if you can get into the small crevices.Then check the wiring down into the circuit board tabs. A little electrical grease can help there too.
 
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Old 03-04-2015, 04:03 PM
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okay
THANKS
RUBEN
 
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Old 03-05-2015, 12:08 PM
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so will parts cleaner (in a can) work or does it have to be electrical contact cleaner
RUBEN
 


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