What would you guys recommend for engine oil in a 2001 Polaris Sportsman 500 and a 2004 Polaris ATP 330? When I used to have my Honda Rancher, I ran the Honda oil religiously but havent really heard much about preference in the Polaris 4 strokes. The reason I used the Honda oil in my Rancher was the engine oil and trans were the same so I wanted the recommended stuff in there. I use the approved Polaris AGL oil in my transmissions and I use regular high quality automotive oil in my two strokes counter balance oil. This is the first oil change on my Sportsman since I bought it last fall and my friends want me to change the oil in their ATP so I want to use what is best recommended.

Thanks,
Mike

 

Besides Polaris oil I've run Mobil 1 0w 40 and Napa filters for years without issue and so do others I ride with with Sportsman 500s,hopefully others will chime in on what they run

 

I've always used the Polaris oil in my bikes myself, but you could use mobil 1 or any real good quality synthetic oil that has the correct number. IE 2-50,0-40

 

As long as its "Full" Synthetic not that blend crap, and has a thin cold start viscosity to get the oil flowing to the cam as soon as possible. like 0w or at most 5w.

I use Amsoil 0w-40 but their are many others like Mobile1 and Royal Purple.

In my tranny I use synthetic Shell chain case oil.

If you Google "Snynthic vs Conventional " its a no brainer which is better. Those blends are a rip off with 20% snynthic at most yet almost the same price.

Also all these oil filters work on your 500 motor.

These Oil Filters have 20 x 1.5mm threads, 14 psi by-pass valve, anti-drain back valve, 2.3" O.D. gasket 2.5" to 3.5" long.


Motorcycle Filters.
AC Delco PF2135
AMSOil SMF103
Carquest 85358
FRAM PH6017A
Honda 15410-MCJ-000
K&N KN-204, about $13. Metric nut on end for easy removal.
NAPA Gold 1358
Purolator ML16817. Imported, not made by Purolator.
STP SMO 17
WIX 51358
WIX PS1358

Recommended filters. All have superior filtering. (I,m told)
About 2.5 inches long.
Purolator Pure One PL14612, about $6.
Mobil M1-108, about $12. Made by Champion.
Bosch 3300, about $6. Made by Champion.

About 3.25 inches long.
Purolator Pure One PL14610, about $6.
Mobil 1 M1-110, about $10. Made by Champion.
Bosch 3323, about $6. Made By Champion.
WalMart SuperTech ST7317,about $2. Made by Champion.

Buy these filters Automobile Filters,about 2.5 inches long.
AC Delco PF1237
Baldwin B1400
Firestone TF2876
Hastings LF113
NAPA Gold 1365
Purolator L14612
STP S-02876
WalMart SuperTech ST6607
WIX 51365



Automobile Filters, about 3.25 inches long.
AC Delco PF-2057
Auto Pro 2356
Autopride CF240AP
Baldwin B1402
Carquest 85356
Carquest Red B4620
Casite CF240
Castrol 7317
Champion Labs Ph2867
Defense Filters Dl7317
Deutsch D-370
Federated Filters LF240F
Fram PH6607


Automobile Filters, about 3.25 inches long.
Fram Double Guard DG7317
Fram PH7317
Fram Tough Guard TG7317
Fram Xtra Guard XG7317
Group 7 V4610
Group 7 V4620
Hastings LF240
Mighty M4612
Motorcraft Long Life FL-821
Napa FIL1356
Napa Gold 1356
Parts Plus PH2867
Pennzoil PZ-109
Penske 7317
Powerflo SL14610
Powerflo SL14620
Pro Gauge PGO-4620
Pro Tec 164
Promotive PH4610
Pronto PO3593A
Purolator L14610
Service Champ OF-4622
Shell SH48
Shell SH529
Stp S-02867.
Valvoline VO50
Warner PH2867
Wix 51356
Wix PS1358 (specific for ATV's) What ever that means.

 

Found this on one of the atv forums "oil wars" discussions.Every forum has one every now and then. Two things I find strange about this is the mileage(which maybe possible) but how does he know how much wear he has with out tearing it down.These posts I take with a grain of salt.The essence of his message is pretty well correct..

"It doesn't make a whole lot of difference what oil you use.

Make sure it is a good quality oil, keep your bike out of the water, keep the water out of your motor, keep the dirt and sand out of your motor, change the oil and filter often.

i have an engine that has over 23,000 miles on it. the bearing journals have less than .001" of wear on them.

I have used several brands of oil, several different weights of oil and I have even topped my crankcase off with a different brand AND weight of oil because I didn't have what I needed on the shelf.



Keep it clean and change it often.

No one will convince me of anything different"

 

It makes some difference based on the temperature where you are. Any full synthetic 0W40 will work just fine at most temperatures.

 

In most cases that's true , but the Fuji dry sump sure likes its oil getting to that cam as quick as possible on a cold start.
I may run 10w-30 conventional in my Yamaha but I would not recommend it in the single cylinder polaris with its cam reputation.

That's why I like 0w-40 its good for the arctic or death valley.

 

Polaris specs 5w50, the 2w50 was a failed marketing sham to sell their lubes. I have run 5w50 and T6 5W40. Full syn is the way to go.

 

Was wondering if anyone else might possibly mention using Rotella T6.. A lot of people still think of it as the red headed step child of the oil world in atvs especially.Just drained the oil out of my riding mower after 50 hrs hard use this past summer and the T6 still looked pretty clean. T6 went right back in it. Little over 6 bucks a quart for a heavy duty full synthetic versus the other brands,this old man ain't gonna pass this up. Just hope they don't raise the price up to what all the other synthetics cost.. Again just my old two cents worth on this. I'll shut up now..

 

I have run T6 5W40 in every gas engine we own, except my truck for years. Dads Massey got switched over to it at the 50 hour service. It is amazing, and a true HDEO. My Sportsman loves it too.