Looking at purchasing a 03' used Wolverine. I also have a Raptor 350. After taking the Wolvy for a few rides, I quickly noticed that shifting between gears is much stiffer and requires more effort than the Raptor. Though I was getting use to it after a while, it seemed I wasn't shifting as smooth. Is this typical of Wolvys (or simi-autos) or should the shifting be smoother an this Wolvy may ne some adjustment or work? t also seem my foot, which isn't very big (size 9) had a hardertime fitting under the shifter. Are there any after market shifters for the Wolvy?

 

Most every semi auto quad I have ridden required at least a little more effort to shift but I think that is normal. You are not only shifting gears but also using the automatic clutch at the same time. You can try adjusting the shifter lever to better fit your size foot. I would try moving it slightly down to start and then more untill it feels right. I am not sure about aftermarket shifting levers but you can do searches on line.

 

im picking up a highly modded one in a few weeks. i noticed this too.the shifter sits pretty far above peg stock...but you can adjust it down. thts the first thing i am doing when i pick it up. it uses a heim-joint which wears and causes sloppy shifting..that is also where you can adjust. make sure its lubed properly also. good luck !!!

 

One reason the Wolv is harder to shift than a sport bike is because the clutch is really not all that "automatic" after all.

When you use your foot to shift gears, you are also actuating a lever that pushes on a push rod. This push rod extends from the shifter side of the case to the right side of the case that houses the primary and secondary clutch assemblies. The push rod presses against the secondary clutch pressure plate, which disengages the drive to the transmission by allowing the clutch friction plates and clutch plates to spin free of each other. This is the same basic thing that happens when you operate a manual clutch, but instead, you are using a cable / lever assy to disengage the friction and clutch plates.

The difference is...on the Wolv semi-auto, there is also a primary centrifugal clutch attached to the crank on the right side. Once the rpm's reach a certain level, the primary centrifugal clutch housing begins to spin with the crank, which in turn spins the secondary clutch housing. If your foot is NOT pressing down or pulling up on the shifter at this time, the primary clutch will drive the secondary clutch assy, which will then drive the transmission. If your foot IS pressing down or pulling up on the shifter at this time, the primary clutch will not drive the secondary clutch assy, removing the drive from the transmission.

If you were to press down or pull up on the shifter and HOLD IT, the secondary clutch is disengaged from the primary centrifugal clutch allowing you to coast while revving the motor.

The way most people pull the front wheels on a Wolv, while sitting normally in the seat, is by pulling up on 1st gear and holding it up, revving the motor, and then "popping" the clutch by suddenly engaging the secondary clutch assy by dropping their foot. BTW, THIS IS NOT ADVISED AND IS HARD ON THE TRANSMISSION. Just using this as an example of how things are actually happening.

The above described is pretty cool and not too bad to figure out once you see it all apart. Tearing my Wolv down for the FST work was a lot of fun and a great learning experience. It also helps to have a few knowledgeable friends on here that are willing to help with any questions.

 

Thanks, great explaination. I still wonder if this wolvy is a bit harder than it should. Trying to move the lever with sneakers or light boots dosen't work, I need to put on heavier toed boots. I decided to buy it, so I might see if a bit of lube will help or bring it in for a once over. The wolvy seems like a good deal, already installed with a warn 424 kit, HMF exhaust, and Noss air box mod. I just ordered a set of Mudlite 25" tires w/series 5 wheels for it.
Another question:
Is it normal with the Wolverine or simi-autos that when it is in gear you can still push it backwards? I was surprised today that I was able to push backwards when it was in first gear.

 

Hey RhinoRaptor...

It IS NORMAL for the Wolv to be able to be moved, while in gear, at an IDLE.

This is because the Primary centrifugal clutch...lets call it the motor clutch... is disengaged (not yet spinning on the crank shaft at a high enough RPM), so even though the Secondary clutch...lets call it the transmission clutch...IS engaged (because your not pushing or lifting on the shift lever), it is not yet being driven by the Primary clutch. The Secondary clutch only gets driven once the Primary clutch reaches it's "stall" rpm and engages. While in gear at an idle, the Wolv rolling is essentially the same as if the engine were turned off and rolling it while still left in gear.

It's really hard to understand how these two clutches interact, without actually seeing them inside the case.

I have a hard time shifting mine with tennis shoes too. Because of my engine mods, I had to go with even heavier secondary clutch springs in order to prevent slippage. Since the Secondary clutch is being operated with the foot / shifter, it adds to the problem even more.

You will like the 25" Mudlites. I just about had your identical configuration at first...Mudlites, HMF slip-on, Noss / Uni filter air box mod and Mudlites. I still have the crappy OEM rims. The mods you have will compensate for the increased tire diameter...and then some.

 

My Wolverine shifts smooth. Hell, I could shift mine with bare feet if I wanted to. A little notchy coming out of reverse sometimes, but otherwise very smooth.

 

Do you know is there an adjustment or a way to ease off the tension on the Wolvy shifter, or where excatly would you lube to help?

 

Bare feet...I bet those foot pegs would play he!! with the bottoms of your feet : )

Some shifters may be easier than others. The position of the shift lever may be different. Who knows, Yamaha may have used Secondary clutch springs that didn't have as much tension. Bottom line is, a Wolv is never going to shift as easy as a Sport - manual clutch ATV or other Semi-auto that has a better shift leverage geometry.

You can adjust the free play before you start to push the rod that presses on the pressure plate and disengages the Secondary clutches. This adjustment stud and nut is directly up from the Left foot peg.

They recommend loosening the nut, Slowly turning the adjusting stud Counter-Clockwise until resistance is felt. This is the point where you are just starting to activate the push rod. You then go at least 1/8 turn Clockwise to assure some free play. If you were to leave it at the point of resistance or even further Counter-Clockwise, you would cause the Secondary clutches to slip. The decrease / increase arrows refer to the amount of free play.

Also, you can adjust the position of the shift lever by rotating the arm position on the shift shaft. This can also help you position your foot differently, which may ease the shifting.

You can lube the pivot points of the shift lever and the rod that connects to the shift shaft, but this won't buy you a whole lot, unless they are rusted up.

 

tdragano, thanks for the help. You may be able to help with another unrelated problem.
I pulled the rope on the recoil starter, but it wouldn't coil back in, I have about a foot hanging out. What do I need to do to have it recoil back in. The rope also felt a bit damp. Can I safely remove the cover on the recoil starter without it pop out and apart at me, what can I expect to find inside. I heard the repair or recoiling is a pain in the butt and time consuming...at least that is what the repair shop said.