I bought the Yamoto 150cc about a month ago. I've had a few probems with it. I sheared the 3 bolts off the sprocket and had to drill them out. Had a few other minor things. I was wondering if anyone has had electrical issues with it. My lights all of a sudden started flashing like there was a loose wire or something. About a week later everytime I turned the lights on the engine would die. As it sits right now I have no power whatsoever. The battery is charged. It will not turn over nor will the lights come on. I've tried to find a loose connection but cannot. Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.

 

Here's a possible fix, sounds like you have a possible short in your lights. I did the same thing where I was working to replace the headlights with a slim-line pair of 55w halogen white lights. As I was doing this, I had the two loose wires to one of the lights just sitting there, not connected to the light assembly. I wasn't paying attention and the positive and negative happend to be touching one another as they lay there. I flicked the light switch on and bang, the fuse went out instantaneously cutting all power of the the entire atv.

The fuse that was blown was the main fuse connected to the positive terminal on the battery under the seat. It's one of those fuse holders that uses the glass fuses. I simply replaced the fuse and made sure that the wires were not touching when I hit the switch again. If the fuse is blowing out then the electrical system is doing it's job: blowing the fust before something worse happens due to the short circuit.

Check the wires and make sure they there's not area where the positive isn't grounding out to any bare metal and that both the positive and negative wires are not making contact with one another...

 

Very nice review by all. We have a Big Bear at the cabin in Minnesota and my 7yr old learned to ride on that. We have recently moved to Central IL. Trying to do more father/son activites and thought we could hit the local dirt patches. I have been looking to buy him a Yamoto 110cc and myself (200lbs) the 150... but wanting to know if i will be pushin this machine too much. Not planning on doing too many big jumps at all...

An other big boys out thee riding this machine? does anyone have some photos they can send me in order to get a perspective on these machines in action ;o) dhakimi@yahoo.com

 

my 250cc had a cdi or cpi unit go bad. warranty covered but shop said they never saw one go bad.

now my sons 250cc commando has lost forward gear. gonna take a look at it today. sounds like the gears are stripped, broke, etc.

so far this is just every day usage over open fields.

 

I found my electrical problem. There was a short in the main wiring harness, which in turn, burnt up the ignition switch. Thanks for the advice.

I think I am going to buy the LT 160 shocks and swap them out. The suspension has definitely softened up since I bought it, but it's still pretty tight on rough terrain.

I turned the front wheels inside out. This widened the front about 2 or 3 inches. It's a lot more stable than it was. Also, they do make aftermarket rear wheel spacers that will widen the rear end 3 inches.

 

I'm 195lbs and carry about 20lbs of extra gear with a rack I put on it my 150cc from a Yamaha Warrior. I routinely ride the 150 without problem. I have been particularily aggressive with it as well without it bogging down or underperforming going up-hill. Moreover, I have ridden with a lady on the back (not that it's built for two passengers) but that totaled about 335lbs and we hit the trails without issue or problem. On paper the Yamoto 150 is rated to handle about 225lbs or so, but they can handle more. Read "DirtForaShirt's" review at the beginning of this thread in which he says he weighs 260lbs.

I have a 10 year old boy who wanted to ride and I was originally going to buy him the 110cc to teach him how to change gears and ride with a less powerful engine to keep things safer. It also has reverse which was a big thing for me. However, I ultimately got myself the 150cc and another 150 for the boy. I did this because you get roughly about 2.9 more horsepower with the 150cc and more torque. With more power, I can now take adult friends out too, but if Junior wants to ride I simply adjust the throttle limiter so he only goes at about half speed to still keep things on the safer side. Also the 150cc is automatic and has hydraulic rear disc brakes which stops SO much easier than cable actuation. This is also much more easy for Junior's less-than-manly grip strength as opposed to the front/rear drum brakes of the 110cc. This is especially helpful when going up/down hills where break and throttle maneuvering is ESSENTIAL. Basically for a little more money I got more horsepower/torque, automatic trannmission, disc/hydraulic brakes, and can therefore have a better resale when he out-grows the 150cc. The only sacrifice I made was forfeiting the reverse drive option.

The number one reason that pushed me over to buying another 150 instead of a 110 was that the 110 ONLY has electric start. If you are ever out far from camp or home (where most riding takes place) and the electrical system fails, the battery leaks, a wire shorts, or fuse blows. You CANNOT start your ATV. You're stranded. Here in Arizona that is not an option with the unforgiving heat when desert riding. The 150's have a kick-start as well as the electric start. If you're electical system cannot start or if someone leaves the lights on, or whatever, you can at least manually start your ATV without being at the mercy of the integrity of an electrical system. It just made sense...

Hope this helps,
Mandrake51

 

I had bought the 70cc Yamoto for my 9 year old daughter. She has put about 20 hours on it. I have changed the engine oil 3 times and the gear oil 2 times. I have just removed the air box restrictor plate and let out the throttle screw for a little more speed. I had noticed over the weekend a tapping noise from the engine. At first I thought it could be the valves tapping and needed a vlave adjustment after the break in period. The valves were in clearence and no issues with the cam chain tensioner. After being warmed up it does slightly disapate but once you give it gas and a little load you can hear the tapping much louder. Does anyone have any idea what else it could be? Has anyone with the 150cc or 110cc experienced this as well?

 

----------------------------------
I'll take a guess, but I could be wrong but from what you describe this could be it. I serviced two 150cc units (which is much the same as the 70cc unit with automatic transmission, etc.) that had the same issue that you are describing above. It seems to be a "tapping" that is non-existent or very faint when driving slowly but when driving accelerates, it is really noticable. It could almost be described as a vibration of sorts. That''s what I thought it was initially anyhow...perhaps something coming from one of the front tires such as a really bad bearing or an imbalanced tire that gave that vibration feeling as the wheels spun...the only problem was that this did not make sense because you would be able to detect a bad wheel or bearing whilst driving at even a slow speed.

Here's what happened. If you're 70cc unit is like the 150cc (I'd have to check the service manual to be sure) the carb is situated on top of the engine. There is a rubber neck that has an approximate 90 degree curve in it. This "gooseneck" connects the carburetor to the actual engine. This piece tends to tear, thereby causing extra air to enter into the engine. With this "breach" in the system's respiration, it is now drawing air from the carburetor and also from this tear in the "gooseneck." As such, when the engine idles, you really don't hear much of the "tapping sound." It's actually more of a sporatic and brief "gasp" that sounds like a tap as the engine breathes air from the tear. Once you start accelerating, the engine will need more and more air just as it needs more gasoline, therefore you really start to hear the constant "gasp, gasp, gasp..." sound that resembles a tap. Basically this "gasp" for air occurs every time the piston strokes - and that's what you're hearing. So you can see how it resembles a "tap" and as you drive faster it turns into a vibration due to each stroke of the piston giving you a "tap."

Eventually, and in short time, this tear will become too large to where the engine will not be able to start because, like any carburation system - too much air or gas will result in a non-starting engine. Look in front of your carburetor and you can see this 90 degree rubber piece. It usually tears right where it is hose-clamped to the carburetor. If you see a tear, that is your problem.

This part needs to be replaced, however I have seen these units tear before and it appears problematic. I have seen folks take this rubber "gooseneck" and give it a good and thorough (not-too-tight) wrap of electrical tape around the tear and surrounding area and put the "gooseneck" back in place. You can also order the part again, (I think for $13.00 but not sure) but risk the tear from occuring again. I say buy a new piece and reinforce it with electrical tape just in case...

Hope this helps,

Mandrake51

 

Hey guys, I just bought a Tomahawk 150 on the internet. It is exactly like the Yamoto/Phantom/Excel atvs. I put it together today, but it won't start. The motor turns over when you try and start it, but there is no spark at the spark plug? Any ideas. I am pretty mechanically inclined and I already own a Yamaha Raptor 660R and a Yamaha Warrior. So I am not completely new to this. I haven't calle dthe dealer yet. I am hoping it isn't a problem with the CDI.

 

They have lost rider/follow behind cutouts. make sure they are in place, or you get no spark. And the obvious, is the switch in the run position?