Yea went I hit the throtlle bolt out and die also I dont have air filter if that matter on this chinisse atv

 

well, i'd say you need to pull the carb apart and clean the jets. they're dirty.

clean the orifices out really good so as to see daylight through them. both jets. double check the float assembly while you're in there. put back together, GET AN AIR FILTER/AIRBOX for the machine. it should go.

 

I have a Kazuma falcon 110 (2006) I only have intermittent spark. I have replaced the stator the coil the ignition switch the cdi box. Every electrical componant I can think of. Tested the switch on handlbar reads good. New sparkplug too!! Can anyone help me? I am spent trying to figure this thing out Thanks, Dave

 

make sure u have good ground to the frame or look at the wires in the stator and make sure color match thats what happent with mine i bought a new stator and wire wans't match to wire harness...and make sure ure kill switch is working right too .....

 

hi im sorry im having the same problem.checked all kill switches those are all fine . now i get to the Ignition Power Supply Winding and i should get 80v ac and im only getting about 35v. do i need a new stator???

thanks Eric.

 

Well I finally figured out my no spark problem. Turns out that my shift indicator wiring was bad. I replaced that wire and she has been great ever since.

 

Hmm. I don't remember this post. Perhaps I missed it.

I very glad you posted back. I don't have a kazuma wiring diagram, and having the spark stopped by a transmission switch on a 110cc machine is new to me. This is a data point for others later on to contemplate....

 

35 volts at cranking speeds will work OK.

What about trigger voltages? How did you test your kill switches? Did you measure the output of the CDi to the coil?

 

I tested my 3 switches out by reading continuity to ground and made each one of the ring out individually. And they all tested fine they are now all in the open position. As far as trigger voltage my meter wouldn't read the AC volts maybe they were to low or speratic. But I tested it out in ohms and got 105. As far as the voltage from the CDI to the ignition coil Im asumming you test that in AC volt and if you do I get 1.5v and I turn the motor over.

Thanks again.

 

The trigger voltage is really important. Without it you won't get spark. There are a lot of meters that won't measure AC volts below 200 volts full scale, with a measurement resolution of only 0.1 volts. If you're lucky and your meter is well calibrated you can see a difference between the trigger voltage with the engine stopped and with it cranking even on a 200 volt AC scale. But it is also likely that you have a meter that doesn't see any difference between stopped and cranking - they both read zero even on a working quad. That doen't means the meter is bad - it means we're stretching the limits on what the meter is capable of doing.

The best bet is to see if you can come up with a meter that goes to a lower AC voltage scale like 20 volts (or even 2 volts). Or, can you measure the trigger voltage on another working quad to see if your meter can actually see a difference between the trigger voltage on a stopped engine versus a cranking engine.

Measuring the ohms of the trigger pickup coil is really important. In the vast majority of cases, if the trigger coil fails it will be open. This could be a break in the wiring, or a break in the extremely fine wire wound up in thr trigger coil itself. Or the trigger coil output could be shorted to ground (at the coil or in the trigger wiring). But even if the trigger coil reads approximately right (as in your case), this isn't good enough for a complete test. If there is a shorted turn (or turns) in the trigger coil winding the trigger voltage will be zero, yet the overall resistance will be close to normal. This is rare compared to just being open or shorted, but it does happen. This is why both tests are necessary.